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August 31, 2006
Training Day 3 (writing)
Sarah, Haesang, and Deirdre taught me an important lesson about tension in writing. We read a narrative that was a beautifully crafted analogy between a 5K race and life. Perhaps it spoke to me because I feel I just completed a particularly difficult stage in life's "race" this summer? Perhaps because it reminded me so much of Sam? I defended giving it a high grade because it clearly came from a perspective of privilege, unlike the other two essays in which the writers grappled with intense dysjunctures between their own sense of self/identity and that which gets imposed on them by other people's stereotypes.
I was wondering to myself how much it is our job to disrupt students' sense of equanimity? Maybe this is similar to the question Haesang asked, about the degree to which we "push" students to ... do what? What are pushing them toward? Our own sense of politics? Our own world view? Our own level of critical analysis?
I know I would like for them to think broadly and relationally, to question their own knowledge(s), to be as suspect of their own perceptions as they are of others, to not be afraid to question and challenge each other and me. (A strategy that works because I'm confident in the authority/authorization of my position - an outcome of experimentation and experience.)
Meanwhile, I would like Ari (if they accept) to be my GoTo Grammar Man and Sarah my Structured-Activity Queen. When I need a reality check I'll touch base with Haesang, a.k.a. Revolutionary Leader.
Posted by Steph at 7:31 AM | Comments (0)
August 30, 2006
Training Day 2 (writing)
Nadia commends me: “It’s very socially responsible of you” to tell people I might blog about them. :-) Yeah well. Nothing like trial and error (and social sanctions – not recommended!) to whip one into etiquette!
Yesterday was a nuts and bolts day. Serious. Down to business. I was resistant but Sarah, Haesang, Kate and Kyle got right to work. Troopers! When the group did report outs I was intrigued that Johanna reported for her group about the movement in McBride – purely selfish, since that’s a major theme of my “Self in Contradiction” essay (Generation). I got great feedback from Phil. Haesang spied on my notes. I received some requests not to be blogged. (If you feel this way, just tell me – I always try to ask first but it might slip…)
Lunch was fun, with Kyle, Janel, “Boomer,” and Roy B. Giv. Donna told me my first blog post was “sweet.” SWEET! She is obviously confusing me with someone else. :-) I dropped my camera in the parking lot and now it won’t turn on. Is it possible the batteries coincidentally died or is it broken? Dang.
My syllabus and plan for the first two days is taking shape. I still think I’ll show The Wall on Day 1. On the board I’ll write:
(I discovered that it really does annoy me when students arrive late – although I’d much rather they come late than not at all. I’m less triggered when I’ve suitably warned them. Students are still occasionally late, but I have more trust that they have a legitimate reason and find that such tardies bother me less than when I say nothing.)
I have the obituary for Syd Barrett from The Economist (July 22, 2006) to distribute, and I want them to check out the COM375 wiki.
HW: 2-3 pages about connections and associations between the movie, the obit, the wiki and relevant other experiences as week-old freshpersons here at UMass. Bring two typed copies to class! There will be 1) a test (critical thinking & to put some fear into them to Really Do the homework) and 2) discussion concerning whether we (their peers and me) compose a single or multiple audience). 3) additional activities related to the writing itself… probably peer response and reflective letters, but TBDL (to be decided later).
Syllabus. I like to give students a choice. We’ll discuss this on Day 2. Do they want the detailed blow-by-blow description or can they trust me to guide ‘em week-by-week? I much prefer the more spontaneous organic method but know some need structure. Usually, through discussion, they vote for shorter rather than longer and decide to trust me. This gives them immediate practice with The Peggy Principle (shared in context of students’ sense of assignments being vague):
Here are my three basic rules:
1. Do your work.
2. Don’t be stupid.
3. If you are stupid:
I have some great photos from today; hopefully I’ll be able to retrieve and post them sooner rather than never. :-/
[Done, 1 September 2006.]
Posted by Steph at 8:31 AM | Comments (0)
(symbolic) end of a long journey
Upon seeing the intuitive acupuncturist it fully hit me: "I've been on a long journey." If I'd been able to cut through the fog of jetlag and overcaffeination, I would have told her I felt stronger. Instead, I fumbled through a brief summary and asked, "How am I?" "Don't give me that crap!" she promptly admonished me. "You know I just reflect back to you what your body already knows." "Yeah, well, I want the confirmation." :-)
She checked my pulse. "Your life purpose is clearer! Congratulations!" :-) [I can't describe it very clearly, but it is true I do sense this, somehow, inside myself.]
[Context note: as I am composing Puru is reading the Ramayana outloud for a handful of Indians who keep cracking up with laughter. I surmise it has something to do with Ganesh Chaturthi but the timing may in fact be merely coincidental.]
[[This is almost as good as the Bush and Schwarzenegger clips being played last night while I was writing the first draft of my "Self in Contradiction" homework. "Gobble gobble."]]
"You need nurturance, of all kinds," the IA continued. "Especially food." "Really? I thought I might be overeating..." "I don't think so. Good wholesome food. Do you have a way to get that?" Yeah. The best Indian food in the area. :-)
She poked two needles into my lower right leg, one toward the inside of my foot nearer to my big toe, and the other most of the way up my shin. "I love working on you! Two needles and your body soaks it up!" I guess this is a good thing...
She leaves me to the treatment. My mind drifts. Life purpose. Dozing . . . memories . . . events from Istanbul . . . tasks in progress . . . things to do . . . what's upcoming . . . so much for drifting. Alert now, I observe my mind continue to float from task to memory to project, emotions wafting among peace, sorrow, hope, anxiety...
The IA returns; I've shifted around, hands crossed over my forehead. "You're cogitating." "I just started, I was drifting before." We discuss the drift for a bit. She announces me done for the day. I ask about the work of the needles. "Nurturance," she replies. "You're having a hard time coming home."
sigh
Puru's voice pierces my attention, reading aloud: "To lose heart is to lose everything." I like that! Turns out its monkeys talking to each other about courage. :-)

Ramayama by C. Rajagopalachari 1989 (26th edition) Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan (p. 205).
Posted by Steph at 8:15 AM | Comments (3)
August 29, 2006
Day 1: Teacher Training (writing)
Linh rocked the Writing Orientation program yesterday afternoon with info on the Writing Program's Teaching Wiki "TWIKI." (Ok, I might be partial because she's my RCS.) She was "on" for all of us after a bit of group-level conflict regarding the example chosen to illustrate the goals of Unit One: Inquiring Into Self. It's a tough position for a teacher to fill, to complete the transition out of a zone of strain back to "business-as-usual" (except that these periods of strain are are crucial to the business of teaching, IMHO. :-)
The training program and trainers are all excellent, and (surprise!) the pre-established curriculum is great, actually. :-) (After so many of my juniors in the required junior writing course, COM375, dissed their own Freshmen writing courses I was thinking I'd have to s-t-r-e-t-c-h a heck of a lot; now I'm thinking, not so.) Many of the resources are online, in the Writing Program Wiki.
With my eye, as ever, on group development (stages, dynamics, and discourses) I noticed how many people jumped in to question and contribute to resolving the conflict. It wasn't really a big deal, but the energy suddenly spiked in the room, so it became (at least potentially) an important moment in the group's overall development. These things will happen in the classroom too, when someone will ask a question and it will galvanize emotion among a range of students (and sometimes the teacher too).
Peggy asserted her authority to shortcircuit spin. She and I, with Josh, had a great talk about it at the break: there was so much modeling in that interaction! As the teacher, you've got to judge when and where to intervene and when to allow the outlet for venting and processing. Because the energy in the room spiked so quickly I think Peggy was right on to interrupt it with a sidestep: "This activity is a choice, an example." Any of us can adapt activities to our own preferences. I call it a sidestep though, because the pedagogical issue is still there, and this is what we discussed at length: most freshpersons coming to the University will be exposed to more diversity in their first week here than in their entire previous lives.
The question is, how do we - as teachers - open doors for inquiry and create spaces for potentially taboo or at least unfamiliar topics without pushing our own agendas? The activity itself, "The Self in Contradiction," is awesome. After the brainstorm, any categorical context could have been chosen, it just happened to be gender. [Now you'll see how my mind works.]
The nice thing about choosing gender is that it is perfect for the expression of affection. At this point in the day, we've already spent four hours together, including substantial time in two different small groups. Comfort levels are growing, people are making connections. Some banter got going while generating the list of common male stereotypes. (I think it was Sarah who contributed "visually stimulated"?) When we switched to common stereotypes about women, the first named was "softspoken" and someone (David?) said, "I'm sorry, I can't hear you," to much laughter. We do like each other. :-)
But there was a heterosexist climate building. I wondered, was gender chosen to counteract my coming out during the "two truths and a lie" icebreaker? Not consciously! Probably, it would have happened anyway (but perhaps if I hadn't come out there would have been no challenge? Who knows?!!) At any rate, the (innocent?) assertion of a heterosexist framework elicited a challenge (in the form of a serious question) and zappo - high energy. Ryan, leading the activity, might (?) have felt a bit defensive (when the energy goes up in a group like that it almost always feels like an attack) ... the trigger seemed to be the naturalistic assumption of framing the next steps in the activity along biological gendered terms - students should pick an item from the list that corresponds with their own gender (the second step was to switch to the other list, but we didn't know this yet).
This highlights how vital it is to consider whether or not the how complements the intention. (Something no one knows ahead of time; welcome to on-the-job training! The best part is, however, that students rarely know when you've messed up. grin)
Peggy suggested to me that if one wanted to introduce the complexity of gender (i.e., blow students' minds) you could begin the activity with three categories (male, female, trans) ... to me that would be over-the-top, because I have no idea how significant an issue such as this might be to the specific group of students in my class (perhaps race or nationality or religion is much more relevant). The real challenge of good pedagogy is (according to yours truly, grin) being subtle (not a trait I've ever been well known for, btw). :-o
What was totally cool about the whole interaction for us - as participants in teacher training - is that sometimes you cannot be subtle. Peggy had to rein us in to keep the whole group on track. The clock ticks! There's a distinction here, between the authority of the teacher and the power of the group dynamic. So, gender is "on the table" for this group - us - now. It will possibly recur. So is authority and authorization. Our small group discussed this at lunch.
We covered a whole range of things: disability access, photocopies (only 750!), transparencies {what do you mean we have to buy our own?!!!}, pros and cons of various seating arrangements, email communication from students, differences between teaching in a classroom building or a dorm, other factors influencing authority (gender, height), formality (use of titles, first names), and various dynamics. "You gotta watch for you," Linh warned one of my peers, after she confessed (!) to having been meaner (!) to grad student teachers than full professors.
Haesang asked about the political persuasions of students. I found this discussion intriguing. There are liberal/progressive minded students here at UMass, but also a growing conservative strand. John clarified that there are more apathetic students than anything else; on reflection I agree with this. I'm excited by the potential in the context diagram to serve not only as a schematic for the writing process but also as a metaphor for acting in the world. :-)
I also noticed and thought about the group dynamics/stages of group development during the first activity when three members generated a response to Romney's hypothetical restructuring of higher education and two members observed the process. Our group (Denise, Janel, Deirdre, Jessica and me) dove immediately into task (no confusion, no reiteration, no questions), agreed on a claim instantly, clarified, paraphrased, and gave each other positive feedback. This ain't no how no way gonna happen so smoothly with our students! (But they will also muddle through, if you don't let 'em off the hook.)
It was a good day; a good training. I struggled a bit to hear some people (quiet voices, or a bit mumbly), but that was only when we did the intros in the large group. The icebreaker/intro activity of two truths and a lie showcased how funny everyone is - obviously an important skill for teaachers, to know when and how to quip. Who was it who asked, after we had settled the little storm, “What are we doing again?”
:-)
Meanwhile, I'm quite pleased to have an inside connection at Trader Joe's.
Posted by Steph at 7:23 AM | Comments (0)
August 28, 2006
"talk to strangers"
I tried to skip town fast but Lee cut me and June off at the pass and plied me with provisions. (I ate everything. I want to know the brand of those lemon wafers.)
I needed it after June conned me into yoga torture at the hands of a Russian contortionist at 8 am on Sunday morning. (What was I thinking?!)
Lee sent me off with two tips: "talk to strangers" (but of course!) and "watch the gap" (between train and platform). I think she meant them both literally, but I pondered the second as a metaphor. I'm always watching for "the gap" in communication, meaning, relationship... how, when, why, to what ends (functions, effects) do these gaps get mediated? Are they closed, bridged, widened? Do they cause problems (too much distance) or prevent them (provide a buffer)? What are the options in approach and intent that align more tightly with desired outcomes? Is there "an outcome" that is desired or is the gap nonconsequential?
Creation was still much on mind, loose images from Deb's paintings floating across my brainscape. I kept thinking of Immanuel Velikovsky and his argument about planetary evolution and its impact on the species. I extrapolate that creation and evolution are violent, catastrophic events (not the nice warm and cozy mitosis where a cell painlessly and smoothly subdivides...)
I successfully navigated the NYC subway before spending the second half of the day on Greyhound (fun commentary from the driver - spicing up an essential feature of class culture).

I almost finished reading an excellent biography of Ataturk on the bus (no motion sickness!)
Puru rescued me from the rain; the Razmobile started without hesitation; Smita cooked a great meal; Mei Mei pretended she didn't know me. Welcome home!
Posted by Steph at 8:11 PM | Comments (1)
August 27, 2006
Gestation ( return and continuation )
"It's the longest Sunday," June observed, after Deb commented on my whipping out the camera to record the spread at Lee and Ralph's last night: "You're still on vacation!"
Yes. :-)
Once again I had no idea how the day would unfold. Lee had offered that I could stay in Long Beach for a few days upon my return and I looked forward to a day or so of rest and adjustment from jetlag. Ambiguity was immediately introduced, however, as other company had arrived. I was chauffered to June's instead.

I hardly hesitated to make myself at home - how could I, when she'd already drawn a bath in the jacuzzi for me?!!! I slept deep and well, waking up early yesterday to begin in earnest the task of being back. I commandeered the dining room table for a few hours of work, then meandered through the day. Before leaving the house, I met June's turtles (among the rest of the menagerie, which includes a cat named Bob). Lee collected me and I resumed mediterranean mode, tagging along wherever, whenever: a tagsale (or was it a yardsale?), a jaunt on the boardwalk (15 minute massage for $10!), a visit to Deborah and Steven's which turned into lunch with Raki.
Next up? Shopping. Oooo, my favorite! (not) I was aimless for awhile. After a few hours though (!), what could one do but join in the spirit? "That was a frivolous day," said Lee, when we finally pulled out of the TJ Maxx parking lot, dispelling my perception that she lives this way all the time. ;-)
I have already learned many things this day: about hosting, giving gifts, taking care to be sure no one feels the least bit extraneous. I adjusted to shifts in conversation - from intensive, animated political discussion with Deb to general care and concern for issues and persons in each other's lives. In the past these would have caused me some angst but today was merely the way of the flow. All this was, it seems in retrospect, prelude to the deep and sweet stuff to come.
When I entered Deb's living room I felt almost assaulted by the large canvas leaned up against one wall. My reaction was gut, visceral; I had no words. As we drove away at the end of the evening, June told me about teasing Deborah about "a lot of red" and asking, "Where's the crime scene?"
Yes, my first reaction was to the implicit violence. I wondered about the insides of this woman: what sources inspire such production?
I almost cried in her studio, standing on the toilet (!), taking in the full visual presence of #40 after her description of its material, theoretical, and spiritual elements. I showed her my tattoo. "That's a lot like my work!" she exclaimed. :-) Yes, our canvasses differ, but the stuff of our work - genetics (dialectics) and dialogue (creation) run parallel.
From there we went to dinner, eventually dubbed my welcome home party. (I only grinned from ear-to-ear for most - not all - of the evening.) ;-) Lee brought out Sam's last bottle of wine. June finally found us and we toasted the spirit of Sam, the day, new and old friends, good food, and memories.
Ralph manipulated the musical environment masterfully as we chomped and chatted our way through several courses, including a dessert to die for - the best canoli and chocolate-covered blueberries!

Can you believe all that was followed by tiramisu? Stop already! (No, don't!) ;-) Not long thereafter I hit the wall. Deb and June noticed immediately - poof, within ten minutes we were on the road.
Chance moves on.
Goodbye for now.
Posted by Steph at 6:19 AM | Comments (1)
August 26, 2006
A Day in Spain
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Well, it was more like a few hours in Madrid (!) – a perfect interregnum between my month in Istanbul and the upcoming academic year in the States. It was hard to tear myself away from World House International but time pressure facilitated.
The first culture shock occurred immediately after Taoufik (driving for the hotel I booked on spot at the airport) collected me. Some congestion of busses and minivans prevented forward movement. Nothing happened. No honking. No swearing. No maneuvering onto the sidewalk to pass whatever fool had blocked the road. I’m not in Turkey anymore!
We sat in silence for a few minutes. Eventually we begin talking and I realize here is a man who has stepped outside of the (dialectical) trend of colonialism. He's from Morrocco, speaks Arabic and French, yet came to Spain.
After a sound sleep, a quick blogpost, a brief ‘good morning’ chat with Taou, and a delicious breakfast I set out for the Real Jardin Botanico. In reality, I have one to one and a half hours of quality “tourist time”. My chosen destination is 30 or so minutes on the metro plus 15 minutes walk. A brief wait between #5 and #2 allows me time for a journal entry. I debark at Ventas and several sights greet me, including the Puerto de Alcala.
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The bliss of this interlude of a day is the time it allows my mind to drift over recent memories and interactions, consider particular comments, and process the emotional mix of departure (so final-seeming) and impending arrival (with its own anxieties). Fatih had commented the other day on my writing about a lucky feather. At the time, I just said I like feathers….but today I wondered what makes a feather lucky? It seems to me that of all the things I will remember about Turkey, the most important one regards a marked improvement in my skill at reading signs.
So here I am, walking rather briskly but alertly down Calle de Alfonso XII, keeping my eyes more-or-less fixed on the architecture, including woodwork, grillwork, and urban views to my right, reserving the Parque del Retiro on my left for the return. I’m thinking about signs and codes – what is it that brings a particular sound or view into focus? I’ve already tipped a couple of musicians playing happy jazzy music in an underpass at the beginning of the walk. I chose to hear their tune as prelude. Beauty abounds and distant views entice. I’m resolute – I picked the botanical gardens because I imagined that there I will be able to hear birds.
The indeterminate future worries me somewhat, yet its unknown qualities no longer weigh me down. I am pleased with the evidence of self-healing. A tower catches my eye and I stop for a photo.
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I notice the tree in front of it, then the tree layered next. Three layers, coming into consciousness from the top-down, most distant to closest. Hmm. I start to continue walking but … perhaps I should note this location – what about these three layers? Start on again, but now I notice an intersection ahead, at an odd angle….it doesn’t seem to conform to the map but why hasn’t the Garden hove into view?
Ah. I need to turn here. Was the tower a sign? It visually interrupted my thinking. I had shifted into automatic pilot; it took three “signals” to break me out of it, to draw me back into the immediacy of the moment, here, now, where I am. How far might I have gone before realizing the error? Perhaps not so far, who knows? As it was, I lost a minute only instead of ten, and it was hardly a loss as it illustrated phenomenologically, in its unfolding, precisely the puzzle I was working in my mind. What causes one thing rather than another to be imbued with importance?
I believe it is a combination (for me) of timing, location, object, and thought. These things must converge in a pattern that has relevance for me, whose individual symbolisms can be perceived or interpreted in a cohesive whole. So the feathers are “lucky” - more precisely, significant symbolically - because, for instance, they come into view precisely when I am thinking of someone or something special. Another comment that has remained in mind was when Umit said he knew my age (but wouldn’t guess, smile), adding something about “the game” I was playing with it. Maybe it’s time to stop coming out about my advanced years? :-)
Anyway. It turned out I was right next to the Jardin but didn't know it. :-) I strolled down around the corner, seeking entry, and discovered the Feria de Libros where I located the current Economist, several postcards, and a used photobook of the city. FINALLY I found the entry to the Jardin. :-)
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Time progressed; I headed for the Parque.
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The central pond stirred a memory of my brother losing his glasses one summer day, right over the edge of a paddleboat in Denver. I remember lunging for them as they began to slide . . .
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Details of this fountain are terrific: frogs alternate with turtles and children ride sea creatures (I imagine fanciful dolphins). :-)
I would dally but Taoufik "That's how I am" awaits. We go for a fantastic Spanish meal of morcilla and tabla de quesos washed down with clara, beer with lemon.
At one point Tauo said, "Wait." Can you imagine why? ;-)
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Posted by Steph at 7:41 AM | Comments (0)
and so the discourse develops...
The trend continues:
August 26, 2006: Europe Pledges a Larger Force Inside Lebanon
[The NYTimes posts - again - a link to Maira Kalman's blog art: Heaven on Earth.]
Another bloglink, Line of Fire: A conversation about the new Mideast conflict, describes the current Israeli "inquiry time, the season in the Israeli calendar that comes after disappointing wars, as inevitable as the headaches and bruises and questions after a bar-room brawl in which everything seemed so necessary and inevitable while it was happening and so jagged in memory."
Meanwhile, Iran steps up nuclear production, the Palestinians strengthen their national government, Nasrullah continues to be heroicized. Fundamentalist Islam is radically strengthened throughout the political sphere of the Arab world. I ask my friends, "Where in your discourse have you built a foundation to blunt the gathering forces of repression and (dare I say it?) internalized, stratified oppression?"
It is good that Arab forces have established equity in international debates. It is as questionable what they will do with this power as any other world power, namely Israel and the US. Who will dissent from the inside? Who will be the anti-Islamists from within to join with the anti-Zionists Jed championed? (The Economist, btw, described those giving themselves this label as fringe groups, extremist in their own way. [reference the edition two weeks ago])
Meanwhile, can artists open dialogues that politicians cannot? "The [cartoon] exhibition is intended to expose what some here see as Western hypocrisy for invoking freedom of expression regarding the publication of cartoons that lampooned the Prophet Muhammad while condemning President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad of Iran for questioning the Holocaust."
Some friends and I discussed the cartoons published in Denmark last winter. Will the discourse about the “Holocaust International Cartoon Contest” ("Holocust"?) become another tit-for-tat reinforcer of static national and religious identities or can it function to open spaces for the genuine appreciation of different perspectives?
August 24, 2006: Gaza Captors of 2 Newsmen Pressure U.S.
August 21, 2004: Europeans Delay Decision on Role Inside Lebanon. I attend a protest in Istanbul.
August 20, 2006: Truce Strained as Israelis Raid Lebanon Site
August 17, 2006: I attend a Barenboim-Said concert that invokes much thought on the snippit of discourse that unfolded through initial responses to each other on the subject of Israel-Lebanon-Hizbullah.
August 13, 2006: I struggle within myself not to respond in kind to a discourse limiting what one can know based upon who one is. Puru posts a newslink.
August 11, 2006: I reflect theoretically on identity, home, and voice.
August 10, 2006: The post, Lebanon is responded to by Tejal and Jed.
August 7, 2006: The post, Diving in Headfirst is responded to by Amanda.
August 6, 2006: Berger on Philosophy" is a snapshot of my philosophical frame for discussing Mideast (and any other) politics.
August 2, 2006: Day 21 (Israel vs Hezbollah) is responded to by Jeff and Yasser.
Posted by Steph at 5:01 AM | Comments (0)
August 25, 2006
a few last secrets
Istanbul wasn't done with me yet! (pictures soon) I was going to just drift through the morning at Cemberlitas, return to the hostel for packing and a leisurely farewell before my mid-afternoon departure to the airport. Instead...
Yasar approached me on the street in Sultanahmet; he had noticed my Crossroads conference shoulder bag from Bilge University. He works at Istanbul University and asks if I'd like to see campus. I love these Turks who have such an ability to make spontaneous plans!
"It is the last day, the last minute! You must do good!"
Did we ever! He toured me through the cemetary of family members of the last two Sultans, Abdul Hamid and Mehmet IV (?), the Grand Bazaar, and the grounds of the University (which are closed to the public; Yasar did some fast talking to convince the guards to allow me entry). He explained to me that Nuri Osmaniye is the first mosque built in the baroque style (who knew that even the mosques have different architectural styles?), that of the three towers still standing in Istanbul the one on Istanbul University's campus, Turen Bayazi (sp?), was for public safety as a fire lookout. He showed me Ibrahim Pasha's famous cemetary with the five names and the best view of the Bosphorus from the back side of Suleymaniye. Most special, however, was a deeply hidden tea garden.
I will be back for sure. :-)
Posted by Steph at 2:38 AM | Comments (0)
August 24, 2006
Tesekkür Ederim
A wave of grief swelled up in me when Leylim asked me not to leave last night, “First night and last night!” Only an hour before Arzu had asked me how I feel about going back to the States. “Mixed.”
“Keep your heart with you,” encouraged Umit. :-) How can I not when life rewards me with such sweet meetings? Early yesterday morning, I’d told Fatih I wanted to spend my last night with old friends instead of new ones. I meant it when I said it, but life doesn’t always conform to expectation. Instead I had a perfect day and perfect night with five new people and seven old friends. Quality time with a dozen people in one day! Who would ever have imagined my capacity could expand so much?
Liminal Turkey (as I’ve subtitled my holiday here) has done its work in me. Warning: My sentimental streak is in high gear. Double warning: I won’t apologize for the excess I can’t contain! :-)
I got started late even though I woke up early. Instead of throwing a blanket on Erdem’s face to wake him this morning I tried shaking his feet. Three times. Finally the woman in the bunk above was also disturbed by his alarm (she thought it was mine), so I roused myself, getting out of bed to go to the head of his bunk and shake the dude. I was pleased to be awake and alert after our (unphotographed!) late night and immediately dove into work.
There were conversations to have with Gunseli, Nina, and Fatih. The morning stretched luxuriously into early afternoon. Yikes! I was supposed to be “doing things!” I bumped into Jillian as I readied myself to leave and it turned out her afternoon was free. “Have you been to Moda?” she asked me? Nope. And we were off. :-)

After much meandering – in conversation as well as path – we arrived at a cay bahcesi.

Since it was my last day, Jill offered me “the better view.” I accepted but then realized I didn’t want to see the city, I wanted more of the water as my visual horizon. “Perfect! I get the mosque,” she said. “Perfect!” I responded, “I get the open sea.”
Something in me chafed a few times….wasn’t I in a hurry to get somewhere? I noted this temporal residue: being in a constant rush, as if whatever I was engaged in was en route to somewhere else where there was (supposedly?) something “more.” I reminded myself that the only destination is now. Besides, I really did not have anything else that needed doing! A few phone calls to touch base and coordinate schedules offer some proof of the “Mediterranean attitude” I’ve absorbed. (Of course we’ll have to see how long it lasts once back in the gristmill of the academic calendar.)
The afternoon floated along like sailboats. Eventually, it was time to rendezvous with Arzu and Ahmet for dinner: delicious crab salad. The evening’s pre-planned schedule faded: more “things to do next time.” Instead, I viewed Ahmet’s first short film, The Trashcan, listened to some of his mixes, and burned Kabakoz photos for Arzu. We were starting to wind down when the phone rang. Ten minutes later Umit and Leylim arrived. I sucked down some coffee fast. :-) We enjoyed some dessert and stretched our wings in stimulating conversation. Meanwhile we perused Arzu’s artwork. We laughed often and deep.

I flew until my body stopped (hi, Claire). :-)
Returning to the hostel conjured the sense of coming home, a place of respite, affection and teasing after respective days full of who knows what. Old (!) friends – including Recep, Özcan, Erdem, and Olga – opened, closed, and touched the middle of the day. New friends filled it with light.
Kolay.
Posted by Steph at 12:42 AM | Comments (2)
August 23, 2006
Bye Bye Sabanci!
Life caught up with me quickly when I moved away from my friend’s place at Sabanci University some weeks (?) [!!!!] ago. It was a terrific refuge while I tried to find my bearings after my plan to travel to Iran was dashed. The effort of generating an alternative on the spot overwhelmed me, leaving me content to plant my butt and let weeds grow. It is a fantastic campus with a gorgeous library (whose friendly staff

facilitated my communication with an IT staffer (Osman should get a raise) who arranged wireless access for me as a temporary guest), outdoor sculptures, a water fountain (good for reading by), fantastic gym facilities, and good food. See me eat!
In addition to the tasty cafeteria meals there is a fast food joint that serves a delicious tavuk (and whose staff wanted to be famous).

Out of fairness then, I asked my daily coffee suppliers if they would like their picture taken as well. They did.

Meanwhile, all is not so open (shhhhhhh, tease forthcoming!) I was allowed access to secure (coded) housing but not to the mysterious, concealed biophysics lab. I was able to capture photos only from behind cover.

The arrival of new technological equipment escaped my camera. Careful, painstaking, and prolonged observation determined that the office of a certain accomplished biophysicist is behind these one-way windows.

I had spied the campus rocket upon arrival and saved it on purpose for the last day. I had determined that the steps to the top were open.

Imagine my emotions after climbing some 57 (or was it 84?) stairs! My emotions were also stirred by the spectacular student art exhibit, Nu Portreler 2.
I began my collection of hand images most deliberately here - I hope none of the artists are offended (and if they are, that they will let me know). I thought I included one recently but now can't find it; at any rate watch for more in future posts! (Unfortunately, glare is a problem with some: either from my flash or the natural light.)
Only one thing at Sabanci was left undone. ;-)
Posted by Steph at 4:40 AM | Comments (2)
August 22, 2006
no cars on Heybeli!
So I rented a bike to tour the island.

It was fun to race. See me draw neck-and-neck!

And leave those four-legged beasts in the dust!

OK, I need to practice my one-handed driving, reverse photo-shooting skills. :-)
Meanwhile, I won't embarass the friend who recommended friends to me here on the island who then recommended me a place to stay right on the corner where the carriages wait. Horse pee is not a pleasant odor. :-/ Simi (sp?), who I rented the bicycle from, suggested I check out the private Greek school, but it was after hours. They have quite the view, though.

I saw several (lucky?) feathers around, a butterfly of striking colors (red/orange on black), and a lizard (sorry for the limited zoom capacity).
They would not let me enter the Sanitorium. I was thinking I might be a suitable candidate. A third of the island is devoted to some naval purposes, and I couldn't help but notice the guards. One guy I hadn't seen in his tiny guardshack until he moved. Catching him out of the corner of my eye I actually backed up; he had leaned forward (apparently?) to watch my progress. I said, "That's an awful job!" thinking of how interminably bored one must be. He panicked, shaking his head frantically. Poor fellow. The next guy, when I didn't immediately look away, cracked and grinned. I grinned back but declined to engage him in conversation. Is this to be a new career? Taunting security personnel? Oy vey...
I had a fun conversation with Mustafa, Barik and their brother (the one with the best English, whose name I've forgotten, sigh) and their dad, Naim. Our communication was halting but they were so curious about me (american?!!) and eager to practice what they knew. This was at the nicest public beach, Cam Bay.

The forest on this island is amazing. In many places it evokes a sense of the Elves forest, hiding Rivendell. :-) (There is a monastery back there, I discovered after the fantasy.) Anyway, the island gave me a terrific dose of blue before returning to the fading greens and burgeoning fall colors of the northeast US.
Posted by Steph at 7:42 AM | Comments (0)
“Be hard by being tender!” [When Nietzsche Wept (part 2)]
So Dr. Breuer challenges Nietzsche. I wrote about the first six chapters a few days ago: my enthusiasm hasn’t dimmed. :-)
“We are each composed of many parts, each clamoring for expression. We can be held responsible only for the final compromise, not for the wayward impulses of each of the parts” (300).
“’One must have chaos and frenzy within oneself to give birth to a dancing star.’” (179-180). [oft-quoted, even by the Deaf community!]
“A tree requires stormy weather if it is to attain a proud height…creativity and discovery are begotten in pain” (179).
The notion of eternal recurrence (249-251) deserves its own post in the phenomenology thread (good section in wikipedia on Nietzsche's view, emphasizing the thought rather than the physical reality of an eternal return). There’s something of the dialectic/dialogic in there (see p. 84, too). It has convinced me that it is time to read the copy of Thus Spake Zarathurstra that I picked up in Berlin last summer.
More on interpretation (I extrapolate): “ a series of meanings folded into” [an object, fill in the blank] (247). “accommodating to [interlocturs’] rhythm[s]” (245), “a philosopher’s personal moral structure dictates the type of philosophy he creates…the counselor’s personality dictates his counseling approach…” (182),
On blogging (!): yearning for an audience, the loneliness of living an unobserved life.
On dreams: “’I wonder,’ Nietzsche mused, ‘whether our dreams are closer to who we are than either rationality or feelings’” (242).
On the unconscious: “Consciousness is only the translucent skin covering existence: the trained eye can see through it – to primitive forces, instincts, to the very engine of the will to power” (239).
On life: “Life is a spark between two identical voids, the darkness before birth and the one after death” (238). “Living means to be in danger” (199).
SAM: “Death loses its terror if one dies when one has consummated one’s life! If one does not live in the right time, then one can never die at the right time” (247).
On memory: “Could there be such a thing as an active forgetting – forgetting something not because it is unimportant but because it is too important?” (231).
On good questions: They help one think differently. (223)
Dionysion passion: No need to live without magic, but you might ”have to change your conditions for passion” (222).
“…where philosophy falls short. Teaching philosophy and using it in life are very different undertakings” (209).
On volume: “If no one will listen, it’s only natural to shout!” (195).
On time and will: “The fact that the will cannot will backward does not mean the will is impotent! Because, thank God, God is dead – that does not mean existence has no purpose! Because death comes – that does not mean that life has no value” (190).
Nietzsche’s mission: “to save humankind from both nihilism and illusion” (140). [soon followed by this next, which I frame slightly out-of-context but what the hell]: “We’ll have to invent our procedure along the way” (141). :-)
Posted by Steph at 7:00 AM | Comments (0)
August 21, 2006
Cinili and Ciya
Fatih caught up with me for a bira before dinner. We engaged in serious political debate. :-)

I got a bloody nose – but it’s unclear why, perhaps it was the residue of all those cops glaring threat at me when I was snapping their photos.
There was great art by Kaya Tanyeri on display in this cafe tucked on a side street down from Kadikoy’s quaint version of Istiklal (which I don’t know how to spell). Her work evoked many complex emotions for me, about family and being a woman.
Olga and Claire finally tore themselves away from Topkapi Palace so we could finally eat at the well-known Ciya restaurant, which serves food made in the style of Gaziantep, a village in the southeast of Turkey. and Olga wasted no time knifing the dinner bread. We shared a vinegary salad completely redeemed by finely chopped pistachio nuts, and tasted each other’s meals. My guvec was the spiciest hot (yah!), Fatih’s lahmacun the mildest roll-up pizza, Olga’s tandoori-flavored perfectly cooked chicken, and Claire’s superbly spiced kebap all complemented one another on the palate. At least, on my palate - Claire didn’t find the cheese dessert pleasing, leaving more for me! (Oh alright, I did share some of the extra.)
For me, it was a day of perfect symmetry. :-)

Posted by Steph at 5:08 AM | Comments (2)
protest
It took well over an hour for the thousands of protesters, from a hundred different groups and organizations, to pass by me in Kadikoy yesterday afternoon. I was immediately impressed by the wide age range (I bet the average would be late thirties/early forties), and the gender distribution (more men than women, it seemed). Conspicuous by their absence, however, were Muslims. Are they not against Israel’s military incursions into Lebanon? Do they not support a Palestinian state? Or is Istanbul less integrated than it seems? Perhaps there were many Muslim men and non-veiled women among the marchers but they were undistinctive. Finally, toward the end, one group of thirty veiled women appeared.

Later, someone explained that the groups in this march were all of the political left, and the religious right won’t mix with them in this kind of way: religious Muslims exercise their politics by different means. It reminded a bit of the debate at the hostel before I left, which included criticisms that there were too many different groups, with unclear agendas or simply gut-level reactions against what they don’t like with no thought to consequences or alternatives. This is always the problem of politics, of course, the challenge of building broad-based coalitions with clear and coherent strategies. What struck me most, however, was the fact of my friends’ concern for my physical safety.
I was encouraged not to let anyone know I’m American (the crowd might turn on me?), but then it became clear it was not the protestors that was the cause for concern. It is the police. Or maybe both. Some friends had witnessed a protest on Istiklak where shop windows had been broken and police had used tear gas. They also recounted stories of police suddenly lashing out and beating people for no reason. I argued that we must make the police accountable through visibility of abuses (media coverage etc), that we can’t let the threat of violence prevent peaceful protest.
At any rate, I probably would not have been so aware of the police if we had not had this conversation. As it was, I noticed them everywhere: on the dock when the ferry landed,

massed (in riot gear) behind the central stage area,

observing from rooftops (military I think, not police),

with back-ups lurking in nearby side streets.

The main road around the staged area was kept closed long after the march was over. Leaving the protest area was no problem, but I was struck by the fact that it was completely enclosed.

To enter, one had to be searched. The men were patted down. I was directed to a female officer who only peeked in my shoulder bag. I wasn’t searched as intensively, but the atmosphere was definitely designed to be intimidating: you had to really want to be “in” the protest, not so easy for people passing by to be drawn in spontaneously.
As far as I know, there were no incidents.
As I got off the ferry, having already spied the police massed to one side, a young veiled woman scurried past me with her fingers in her ears. A steady stream of people gathered at an information tent and perused the Insani Yardim Vakfi display throughout the day,

many signing the petition.


Eventually I wandered off (not much action, were the organizers disappointed?) and happened upon the actual march itself. Wow. I took some video but :-( don’t know how to transfer them from my camera to the laptop for uploading. (I’ll try and do this when I get back to the States; probably need to actually load all the software that came with the camera. duh.)



Posted by Steph at 4:30 AM | Comments (0)
What Trees Dream of
This one thinks, let me be the slender bow
of the violin. Another, the body of the instrument,
burnished, the color of amber.
One imagines life as a narrow boat
crossing water,
a light mist of salt on the prow.
And still another – planed down to planks,
then hammered into shelter
toices vibrating through the rafters.
We do not notice their pleasure,
the slight hum of the banister
beneath our palms,
The satisfaction of the desk
as we tap our pens, impatiently,
upon its weathered surface.
They have ferried us
across rough seas
to lands that smelled of cinnamon
housed our senators,
who pace the creaky floors, debating,
carried arrowheads to pierce our enemies.
We have boiled their pulp, pressed it
into thin, white sheets of paper
on which we describe all of the above in great detail.
And when we die
they hold our empty forms
in bare cedar
until the moment – and how they long for this,
when we meet again in the blackened soil
and they take us back
in their embrace, carry us
up the length of their bodies
into the glittery, trembling movement of the leaves.
Danusha Laméris
Atlanta Review: Istanbul and beyond…
Turkish Poetry (2006, p. 18-19)
Posted by Steph at 4:24 AM | Comments (0)
August 20, 2006
Agwa and Company
We made friends almost immediately.

We located a hotel, met relatives of the owner, and landed ourselves on a boat. We pull out of the protected river area,

and next thing you know, we're cruising the coastline.

It changes constantly. After some twenty minutes of loud music, a short spurt of off-balance dancing, and hollered conversation, we arrive at an inlet.

Selin and I talk, while Irem tested the water with her toe. Ozcan lost no time diving in; can you tell which one is him racing back to the boat?

These craggy nooks reminded folks of Cappadocia - no, I didn't go there (yet). Maybe on the next trip. :-) Returning, pictures were taken all around, of the women:


and the (self-segrated?) men:

We parted ways at sunset.

Posted by Steph at 3:58 AM | Comments (0)
en route to A-wa
It was just over a week ago that we began this trip. I don’t have the proper upwardly-curving “hat” in my symbol file to spell Agwa in the Turkish way, which indicates the soft (to my ears, silent) “g”. En route, Ozcan and I

stopped at the MobiDik restaurant with its view of the site of the original fortress of Herake

(now known for Turkish carpets) on one side and the Marmara on the other. Yes, we took the long way round, through Izmit, to the Black Sea coast. You know you’re in the Meditteranean when the windows lack any covering whatsover. We also saw an olive tree estimated at 400 years old.

Check out the trunk. The countryside is stunning.

We saw many findik groves (“the petrol of Turkey”) which yield one of my favorite nuts.
Posted by Steph at 3:33 AM | Comments (0)
Long live Nietzsche!
“I love that which makes [humanity] more than we are!” So Nietzsche proclaims in his first encounter with Dr. Josef Breuer (Freud’s mentor) in Irvin D. Yalom’s absorbing imagination. The protagonists, their characteristics, and the intellectual trends of When Nietzsche Wept are “grounded in fact” and “historically in place”(307, author’s afterword) although in fact “Friedrich Nietzsche and Josef Breuer never met” (307).
Breuer challenges the passion and reverence for ‘the truth’ apparent in Nietzsche’s “holy tone.” “’Truth,’ Nietzsche [had said], ‘is arrived at through disbelief and skepticism, not through a childwishing something were so.” Nietzsche rebuts Breuer’s challenge thus: ”It is not the truth that is holy, but the search for one’s own truth! Can there be a more sacred act than self-inquiry?” (68).
The two intellectuals are reveling in the directness of their discourse: “Usually what is not asked is the important question!” Breuer exclaims (67). They disagree – based on the perspective of their different disciplines? – regarding whether unasked questions ought still to be answered.
Earlier, Breuer chooses not to engage an “ex-cathedra distinction between the realms of illness and being.” Neitzche has proclaimed, “I have black periods. Who has not? But they do not have me. They are not of my illness, but of my being. One might say I have the courage to have them.” These periods are sometimes preceded by a day of “feeling dangerously good” (emphasis in original, 56).
Yalom’s genius is to illustrate the “talking cure” which becomes popularized as psychoanalysis when Breuer and Freud co-publish Studies in Hysteria in 1894. These fictional conversations between Nietzsche and Breuer are situated a dozen years earlier, in 1882. From the description of Breuer’s method, one can perceive the outline of discourse analysis: ‘[listen] carefully to the patient’s free-form description….systematically investigat[e]…..never [omit] any part [of all functional systems] … allow intuition full rein and … make all other inquiries that [the] data thus far suggest[s]” (54-55).
Notes on home: “My whole life has become a journey, and I begin to feel that my only home, the only familiar place to which I will always return, is my illness” (51) and “My home is my steamer trunk. I am a tortoise and carry my home on my back. I place it in the corner of my hotel room and when the weather becomes oppressive, I hoist it and move to higher, drier skies”(61)
on interpreters in general: “Interpreters of texts are always dishonest – not intentionally, of course – but they cannot step outside their own historical frame. Nor, for that matter, out of their autobiographical frame” (52, note: there is more).
on dreaming: “Perhaps dreams can express either wishes or fears. Or maybe both…Will a dream once dreamed change to accommodate changes in the dreamer’s life?” (39).
on neurobiochemistry: “Once the excess cerebral electrical charge responsible for symptoms is discharged through emotional catharsis, then the symptoms behave properly and promptly vanish!” (42) known as “chimneysweeping” (41)
on the labor of the intellectual: “reading…pouring all this knowledge into the brain through a three-millimeter aperture in the iris” (37).
One thing I question, based on Billig’s investigation of Freudian Repression: Conversation Creating the Unconscious, is the openness with which Breuer and Freud discuss anti-semitism. Although this imaginary conversation is many years prior to the Nazi campaign…I suppose it is possible that what was once an acceptable topic (the recognition of anti-semitism and its manifestations) could become less so over time. Billig’s fascinating argument is that Freud himself repressed his own awareness/recognition of anti-semitism, but his conclusion is even more stunning: that Freud’s investigation of the mechanism of repression illustrates that it occurs through talk (not via some imaginary structure in the brain which he invented and gave substance by providing labels – i.e. that he brought into being also through talk). The act of repetition seals what is remembered or forgotten.
Posted by Steph at 3:16 AM | Comments (0)
August 19, 2006
falling off the world stage
It didn't take peace long (however tentatively-constructed or believed in)to fall out of the headlines. Not in the NYTimes top three for the past three days.
I had promised to share all the links people forwarded; I apologize for the delay (but then it also seems I may have lost my interlocutors?) My chicken, your egg? Or vice-versa? :-/
August 10: Sirisha sent Israel in Lebanon: Wreaking Havoc and Violence by Sukumar Muralidharan.
August 11: Swati sent two links: for news & blogs on the situation in lebanon and a short video made by a film collective in beirut.
August 11: Yasser sent The Sinking Ship of U.S. Imperial Designs by Gilbert Achcar.
August 11: Jose from Belgium sent this statement by UNESCO's Artist for Peace, Marcel Khalife.
August 14: one request to be removed from my mass mails on this topic
August 14: Puru posts in Reflexivity a link to a news story from his own blog, PaddleSweep.
August 20: from Esther sent Isreal and the Ayatollahs by Amir Taheri.
Posted by Steph at 6:34 AM | Comments (0)
index: crossroads 2006
Here is a log with links back to the entries I wrote during and about the presentations I attended at the Association of Cultural Studies conference held in Istanbul, graciously hosted by Bilge University. The following list is in chronological order, from earliest to latest.
Crossroads Day 1 (posted July 21, 2006) regarding "European Identity in a Transnational World" (1.55), “The City as a Thinking Machine” (S1), and “Is a Cosmopolitan Multiculturalism Possible? The Australian Context" (1.13).
Crossroads Day 2 (posted July 22, 2006) regarding "Emotion Trouble, or the Affective Turn in Media and Cultural Studies II" (2.3).
Stop Masturbating in Public (posted July 22, 2006) regarding "Abstract Social Identities and Chaotic Everyday Practices" (3.01) and continued with Inside/Outside (posted July 23, 2006).
Multilingual Cosmopoliticians (Crossroads Day 3) (posted July 29, 2006) regarding the panel by this name.
Interpretation and Linguistic Inequality (Crossroads Day 2) (posted July 30, 2006) regarding the panel "EU: Europe Beyond Geography?" (2.51) which included my own presentation.
Crossroads (Day 4) (posted August 7, 2006) regarding “Time, Space and the Unfolding of Culture" (4.19)
Cutting into the Social Fabric (Crossroads Day 4) (posted August 18, 2006) regarding the Closing Plenary, "Where Should Cultural Studies Go?"
Posted by Steph at 4:57 AM | Comments (0)
Heaven
First, the hamam at Cemberlitas for a sweat and serious skin scrub. I felt so clean and refreshed afterwards. :-) Then, dinner at a restaurant called Cennet. YUM! Gunseli and I (in costume) shared an Antep Crepe and Adana Kebap (both named after villages elsewhere in Turkey). I had an ayten to drink (yogurt, rather saltified), and then we had dessert (yes, there is chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry ice cream under all the fruit!)

Along the way Olga, Lambrini, and Claire caught up with us. Everyone but Claire was enticed into dancing with the resident gypsy troupe.

Our waiter, Bayram, promised to sell me a property in the US at half-price once he passes his real estate test and joins his brother working for Century 21. His promises are a bit shaky, though, since he tipped my Turk kahvesi for a fortune-telling but then failed to produce a fortune teller. It seems my future is unreadable! Gunseli tried again,
this time seeing three journeys, a ship, [Claire contributed a shark], a seagull (perhaps bringing news?), a mermaid (!), and a sculptured head. No cohesive interpretation was forthcoming, although the wish I held in mind this time was foretold to occur quickly. (I don’t know if one is superstitiously supposed to keep the wish secret…?) [Not that there’s any superstition in the rest of the activity, ahem!]
It took almost forever to escape this joint, so we abandoned the ethnoelectroenergy music bar and found another restaurant (!) for Olga, Claire, and Lambrini to eat. (Why they didn’t order at Cennet….?) We discussed international relations for some time en route, three Greeks, a Turk, and me. A lyric by Morrissey was cited: “America is not the world.”
Nonetheless, I’ll be returning to the US soon; the official countdown has begun. After the angst of adjusting to the imposed change in plan (no trip to Iran, wah) with the accompanying anxiety of how I would manage to use my time here without too deep a descent into the lonelies…I’ve had the most extraordinary and fortunate holiday. I owe it all to the people I’ve met along the way. :-)
Posted by Steph at 4:30 AM | Comments (0)
August 18, 2006
Cutting into the Social Fabric (Crossroads Day 4)
Where should cultural studies go?
Kuan-Hsing Chen posed this question as an open challenge. Physically, geographically, the Association of Cultural Studies will hold its next conference in Jamaica, but the real question, Chen argues, is not "where" but “how will we go there? In what manner?”
The first two presenters during the final symposium of Crossroads 2006 spoke eloquently of future directions in the sense of theoretical and methodological trends. Sandra Idrova Carlier recounted the originary characteristics of cultural studies: resistance to the compartmentalization of knowledge, the creation of new frameworks rather than continued defense of strictly divided objects of study, the capacity to attract scholars from different fields on topics as varied as subjectivity, power (especially politics), culture (especially its symbolic dimensions), all of which generated a kind of intrinsic heterogeneity.
The move to transdisciplinarity was (still is?) a direct response against the institutionalized academic frameworks which originated in colonial powers then moved to North America. (To what extent, I wonder, is the emergence of this field a proactive, anticipatory and future-looking response and how much a gut-level instinctive reaction to the dialectics of the past? Examining the tensions between institutionally-conditioned social and cultural limits and dialogically-induced creative interventions is a particular site that I would propose as an answer to “how” ASC moves toward Jamaica.)
Carlier went into a lot more detail regarding intersections and conjunctions of various spheres (political economics, transnational business, etc) while keeping a sharp focus on concrete social actors. Of course she also emphasized the role of media, and captured my attention with a quote from Nestor Canclini about working “in the zones where narratives cross each other.” I cannot reconstruct her link between these narrative intersections with culture, faith and religion, but I agree with her statement:
Meanwhile, she also cautioned against the danger of the confessional in relation to a point about mythologizing…I’m bummed I zoned out at this point. No idea why. :-/
I had a hard time following the second speaker, Ivaylo Ditchev. I wish it wasn’t so, but my notes are minimal and I remember that I was struggling to keep my attention focused. I think this was the result of being physically tired and intellectually maxxed out with so much information. I know he spoke about the question of whether or not cultural studies is one field or many, if there are one or multiple globalizations, and the dual identities of scholars in the field, e.g., “I’m in cultural studies but I come from Communication, Sociology, etc.” He did caution us about the latest intellectual fads, for instance, the example of semiosis – which seemed to take over for a time but has now faded: in its heyday, “Everything is a sign!” The current flavor is, “Everything is culture!”
He mentioned the notion of a “post-compression world” and related it to the digitalization of memory. (The phrase was attributed to someone in particular.) [Aside: Might be something for me to investigate in terms of my use of this weblog. One of my mentors just told me he is “ideologically opposed to blogging as a substitute for personal communication.” Ouch! :-) Which reminds me of a comment I overheard (during Crossroads, possibly about my blog) to the extent of “Why blog into a vacuum?”]
I woke up as soon as Chen took the microphone. Actually, I’d noticed him rocking in his chair and wondered if he was getting antsy to begin. I was immediately struck by the dynamic of someone from the audience telling him to sit down and use the table mics because “they’re better”immediately after he just explained that he was nervous and needed to stand. What was that about?
Apparently Chen has a reputation for his assertive public presentation, but it was the content of his speech that hooked me moreso than its performance. In reflecting on the title of this closing plenary session, Chen shared a Chinese aphorism to the effect of
”Where Should Cultural Studies Go?”
“Should,” he explained, is “always out of a condition of possibility.” Such a question can be answered only from a specific position, a stance. In practice, you do on the spot what is possible, rather than making a grand statement. Cultural Studies is already plural. There is no single unity/unifying…ACS a good site to learn about each other, an imagined community of cultural studies, but is it a real community – do we share methodology? Do we understand discipline similarly? No, he argued, these things are very different in different locales.
After providing a detailed account of what is being done in the name of cultural studies in Asia, Chen integrated organizational politics (apparently from the previous day’s business meeting), challenging the audience members and the organization to respond to this question:
Chen juxtaposed the short-term decision to hold the next conference at The University of the West Indies in Jamaica and the long-term question of hosting a conference in Asia with larger economic politics concerning “the face of neoliberalism which seeks to close down [certain] subjectivities in favor of ‘professionalism’ and ‘jargon’ that have no grounding, no historical context. His argument, already forcefully made with the litany of combined academic-business-cultural cultural studies endeavors occurring throughout Asia, is that the way forward must include deliberate attempts ”to cut into the social fabric” and make interventions that alter conditions and improve people’s lives. He challenged the organization in unambiguous terms to confront euro-american-centricity. We must learn to recognize this as a limit – a limit upon we who consider European modes of operation as the only organizational possibility. Of note to me was his emphasis on language: learning the host countries language and doing a better job at creating linguistic access.
As Chen grew more impassioned, the audience grew more tense. It was palpable in the atmosphere. I was exhilarated, but wondered how the group-as-a-whole would respond. I was surprised when the moderator, Lawrence Grossberg, opened up a Question and Answer session. Using a group relations lens, I wasn’t surprised when the first question bypassed Chen (dispelling all that accumulated energy), being directed exclusively at one presenter and on a fairly narrow topic. I did feel disappointed. :-/
More questions were elicited (a pattern from all the workshops which I found more productive than one-at-a-time traditional turn-taking). The second question was more embracing (of all three presenters) and acknowledged some of the tensions raised by Chen.
My notes are unclear (and my memory unhelpful) but it seems the question had something to do with a theory-action split. Chen responded that euro-american-centrism is “a blind spot which prevents certain possibilities of intervention.” Carlier agreed that theory is important but that we also need to be thinking about the doing. What we need is a combination – cultural studies is not only about teaching or talking about doing things.
I thought it was a fitting official end.
Posted by Steph at 10:15 AM | Comments (0)
babies and math
Recep sends this article, Baby brains are hard-wired for math after reading my post about the Poincaré conjecture. (I kinda feel for the kid with a gazillion electrodes coming out of its head, but she/he doesn't seem to be bothered.)
Posted by Steph at 9:12 AM | Comments (0)
Coming soon to a library near you!
Ok folks, let me toot my own horn a little bit. The following email is about an article I submitted for (competitive!) publication two years ago. :-)
Dear Stephanie,
I am happy to finally let you know that the Critical Link 4 proceedings have been okayed for publication in John Benjamin's Translation Library series. At last it is time to prepare the final ms!
I enclose below a review comment, which is specifically on your paper. As you can see, it is very positive. Just thought I should let you know. The reviewer's view is shared also by us, the Stockholm editors. Your contribution is perfect as it is!
Very best regards,
Cecilia
*********
Kent's paper is, to my mind, along with Turner's the most exciting paper in this volume: thought-provoking, stimulating, challenging and highly intelligent. She critically investigates the role of interpreters through clients' criticism - a truly novel approach which leads to some very interesting findings indeed. The paper is well-constructed and well-written - to start off with she defines professionalization and links it to the concept of insitiutionalization, which provides a historical and sociological framework for the study. The paper is really though provoking and challenging - she asks questions which many take for granted (e.g. standardization) and shows how the process of professonalization is linked also to complex ideological and social factors governing its immediate socio-cultural environs - linguistic and educational policies for example. She shows how interpreters are sometimes caught between their professional role and their cultural identity. She makes a distinction between the macro- and micro level of professional establishment and interaction and discusses the professionalization of Sign Language. In short, she is breaking new ground all over the place - an excellent paper!
Posted by Steph at 8:25 AM | Comments (0)
coexistence of development and disaster
This morning I met Akhilesh. He’s studying disaster management at the Kyoto Graduate School of Global Environmental Studies in Japan, which is prone to every known natural disaster except drought. Istanbul just hosted a disaster management conference because it is also quite prone to earthquakes but its disaster preparedness is devastatingly low. Yesterday they commemorated the 1999 Izmit earthquake that killed approximately 7000 people and destroyed at least 300,000 homes, registered 7.4 and displaced a million people. Apparently, seismic activity occurs here – on average – every five years, but the level of individual awareness and preparation is so low authorities are concerned that individuals and families may not be able to sustain themselves for even a week if another large quake occurs.
I don't know about the emergency management preparedness of India (Akhilesh intends to return home to central India), but the cultural contrasts between Japan and India are incredible. Akhilesh described them well. :-) There are similarities between Turks and Indians in regards to law (watch for an upcoming post on Turkish driving). Akhilesh says Indians' attitude towards the law is essentially contrary. “If there is a sign that says “No Smoking,” I might light up a cigarette just for the thrill.” But in Japan, no one questions it. “There is no resistance. Not even an abberation! If the government says, "reinforce this building," they reinforce the building. In Turkey, they will pursue all the proper documentation and certifications to show their building is ok, but in actuality…”
This reminds me of my favorite retired ambassador explaining about the fantastic new highways that have been built on the Asian side, which are technologically perfect. But administratively? Several signs were posted incorrectly, causing drivers to follow misdirections for months! Even now, over a year later, one sign (at least) has still not been properly located. “It’s incredible! No one cares!”
Akhilesh’s scope is wide, considering how it is that Japan is among the upper echelon of developed countries while being faced with constant geological and climatological disasters. He notes that Japan is an island, therefore doesn’t have any border/immigration problems like India (with Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, etc) or the US (Mexico). Japan has regional tensions with China but they are not as hostile as India’s with Pakistan. I wondered about the representations of social values in language use about preparedness and how being prepared is linked to development. (One must know Japanese to identify these cultural nuances.) Overall, Akhilesh is still puzzling on the degree of conformity. Obviously, given his characterization of Indian attitudes toward the law (not to mention its vast cultural variety (regional, linguistic, etc) what was been effective in Japan will require much modification.
If I were to go out on a thin limb of speculation, I’d muse that the high level of individual conformity and collective acquiescence is, in fact, directly correlated to the high level of risk of death and social instability. The more insecure the exterior environment, the more humans seem to require stability of the interior and social relationships . . . the narrower and more rigid (?) become the avenues for the semblance of control. The discipline of doing what one is told – hence, of acting on the basis of essential trust in the authority, intentions, and reasons of the ‘teller’ – performs positive psychological and sociological functions. As long as the authorities live up to this trust, a high degree of functional performance can result, strengthening the fabric of civil society.
This is a clear benefit of homogeneity. (A cost is the reduced range of expression for individual variation along a continuum of repression to oppression.) It does help one understand the driving impetus behind ideological nationalisms and religiosity. If one manages perceptual input through pre-established frames, and limits interaction to those who are similar, one can (hope to) establish a groundwork for maintaining sanity: one can (seek to) predetermine (to varying extents) the path of one’s life, to feel as if one is in control.
Posted by Steph at 8:02 AM | Comments (0)
August 17, 2006
the Poincaré conjecture
"...there is a growing feeling, a cautious optimism that they have finally achieved a landmark not just of mathematics, but of human thought." Reports Dennis Overbye.
If solved, Overbye continues, the implications of Dr. Grigory Perelman's discovery will unfold for decades, but "the excitement came not from the final proof of the conjecture, which everybody felt was true, but [from] the method, 'finding deep connections between what were unrelated fields of mathematics'” (quoting Dr. John Morgan from Columbia, emphasis added).
This matters, because “'Math is really about the human mind, about how people can think effectively, and why curiosity is quite a good guide,' explaining that curiosity is tied in some way with intuition.

The problem has to do with the nature of space: "In effect, what Poincaré suggested was that anything without holes has to be a sphere. The one qualification was that this “anything” had to be what mathematicians call compact, or closed, meaning that it has a finite extent: no matter how far you strike out in one direction or another, you can get only so far away before you start coming back, the way you can never get more than 12,500 miles from home on the Earth."
Are there truly limited shapes of space?
"In the late 1970’s, Dr. Thurston extended Poincaré’s conjecture, showing that it was only a special case of a more powerful and general conjecture about three-dimensional geometry, namely that any space can be decomposed into a few basic shapes. Mathematicians had known since the time of Georg Friedrich Bernhard Riemann, in the 19th century, that in two dimensions there are only three possible shapes: flat like a sheet of paper, closed like a sphere, or curved uniformly in two opposite directions like a saddle or the flare of a trumpet. Dr. Thurston suggested that eight different shapes could be used to make up any three-dimensional space."
The Ricci flow doesn't sound fun (no thanks, I'd rather my head didn't morph into a sphere!) But Perelman's discovery is that apparently the singularities (densities) that occur in the morphing process are all "friendly" - apparently meaning they don't interfere with the eventual revelation (exposure) of the space's essential shape.
Perelman himself appears to be satisfied with having produced a monumental work and shuns the spotlight. I like the characterization by Dr. Anderson: "He came once, he explained things, and that was it...Anything else was superfluous.”
Posted by Steph at 10:34 AM | Comments (1)
a fun novel on quantum uncertainty
I definitely need to read this, Schroedinger's Ball, by Adam Felder. Reviewed by Richard Eder.
"As for a message, I suppose it would be, “Uncertainty transfigures.” To be taken no more seriously, and perhaps no less, than the “love will find a way” of a Strauss or a Franz Lehar. Which is also Mr. Felber’s message, come to think of it."
Do I resemble myself? Perhaps this kind of thing is what's being represented in the tattoo on Arzu's arm:

Posted by Steph at 10:27 AM | Comments (0)
headlines: New York Times
August 10: Israel, Seeking Rocket Buffer, Sets Expansion
August 11: Israel Asks U.S. to Ship Rockets With Wide Blast. (Second headline; topped by the British capture of 24 men intending to blow up several planes.)
August 12: U.N. Council Backs Measure to Halt War in Lebanon
August 13: After U.N. Accord, Israel Expands Push in Lebanon
August 14: Cease-Fire Begins After a Day of Fierce Attacks
August 15: Testing How Long the Mideast Cease-Fire Can Last with videocommentary from the journalist, Steven Erlanger.
August 16: Hezbollah Leads Work to Rebuild, Gaining Stature
August 17: nothing on Lebanon, Israel, Hezbollah.... back to Iraq.
Posted by Steph at 10:15 AM | Comments (0)
“the untended garden”
The Drummonds are implausible, but not quite. Every strange and random thing Coupland invents for them is evidence of the absurdities made possible by modernity (by which I mean individual consciousnesses – especially the much-revered quick wit – and bizarre social relationships and structures enabled by urban anonymity and all kinds of technology). The story, All Families Are Psychotic, unfolds mainly from the viewpoint of sixty-five year old maternal Janet, self-described as a dumb bunny, who had accepted the simplistic myths passed down by adults and advertisements.

The novel covers terminal illness, illegal drug marketing and manufacture, sadism, babies for sale, and a million schemes for making money. It includes affairs, drugs, alcohol, space flight and Princess Diana. It is also about family, memory, and philosophies of life. Janet's father once explained, “We do so many things and we don’t know why, and if we do find out why, it’s decades later and knowing why doesn’t matter any more’” (51).
Midway through a series of events that most people would consider more-than-plenty for a lifetime, “Janet sensed that her opinion of her life was changing. Two days ago, it had felt like merely a game of connect the dots – a few random dots, spaced widely apart and which produced a picture of a scribble. But now? Now her life was nothing but dots, dots that would connect in the end to create a magnificent picture – Noah’s Ark? A field of cornflowers? A Maui sunset? She didn’t know the exact image, but a picture was indeed happening – her life was now a story. Farewell, random scribbles (2002: 173).
She rebuts her oldest son’s proclamation, “my past is no longer the issue that it once was!” Janet laughs, explaining, “Your past isn’t something you escape from. It’s what you are” (193). Later, she muses to a new friend, “Funny how you only realize how deeply events have affected you years and years after they’ve occurred” (235). She does learn how to change her orientation to this knowledge though, because she moves beyond the reaction of becoming “angry at the way the past was always inserting itself into the present” (164).
Thinking of Sam (as I have been), I think he would have loved this book for its mix of serio-comic: “The accelerated perception of death quickly eroded many of the traditional barriers between her and others, and she found she had a talent…” (123) and “Our lives are geared mainly to deflect the darts thrown at us by the laws of probability. The moment we’re able, we insulate ourselves from random acts of hate and destruction….The dull day is a triumph of the human spirit, and boredom is a luxury unprecedented in the history of our species”(86).
This, just before confronting a gunman during a robbery in which he has already shot a couple of people. “’I’m sixty-five, you twerp. Shoot me, but I’m going to help Kevin here. I’m sure your buddies would really respect you for shooting an unarmed sixty-five-year-old lady,’ Janet sat down beside Kevin and held his hand” (86).
There’s much more.
On the mass media: “Her eyes and ears were tickled and molested by screens and speakers, all of them heralding the birth or death of something sacred or important” (259).
On political economy: “Lots of fat people means lots of happy farmers, happy agrochemical makers, happy teamsters, happy fast-food staffs – happiness and joy for all. Fatness ripples through the entire economy in a tsunami or prosperity” (234).
On accomplishment: “There are simply these things that need to be done, and it’s simpler to do them than to not do them” (73).
On silence: “I’m so tired of people never saying things. Silence reminds me of when I was growing up. Stifling” (81).
On the moon: “If human beings had never happened, that same moon would still have been in that very same position, and nothing about it would be different than it is now” (69).
On physical abuse: “When Dad hits me, it’s not like he wants to hurt my outside. He wants to hurt me on the inside. He thinks he’s King Shit, and he wants to let me know it” (60).
On talk: “After the [disappearance of] the jam, the rest of Janet’s life seemed to be an ongoing reduction – things that had once been essential vanishing without discussion, or even worse, with too much discussion” (11).
Posted by Steph at 8:45 AM | Comments (0)
Fal bakmak
I order Turkish coffee before heading to the Arab-Israeli symphony last night.
I'm back at the World Istanbul Hostel, where people know my name. :-) Gunseli says she'll read my coffee grinds.
Of course I'm game! There are a few crucial steps, first, one must upend the cup into the saucer, and then wait. Eventually, the evidence is produced:

The sequence might matter. Gunseli read them before she showed them to me. (It felt so Harry Potter!) At any rate, she read me only positive signs:
- "there is a man with a beard...some thoughts" (am I in his? he in mine? unclear. I think first of Sam, then of The Man Who Would Be My Wife.)
- "there is a baby" which might indicate "something good . . . it's happiness"
- "there is a fairy, like a butterfly, it means luckiness"
- "there are big fishes; fishes mean money" (so far so good!)
- "there is a tree, branches, like a family, strict relationships" (hmmm . . .)
At this point Gunseli shows me the cup. I had just read an English translation of a Turkish poem, "I Thought I Could Be More", by Jennifer Highland:
I thought we were done but there was another step. I was told to keep a wish in my head while Gunseli poured off the excess liquid from the saucer:

(If only the reading is as blurry as the picture!) My wish will come true, she says, "it will be a little slow, but it will happen." One last examination and "a man with a mane like a lion," who is the same man as before (oops, definitely not TMWWBMW) will give me "a very big present or happiness."
I can't complain overmuch about my fortune, it brims with optimistism! Then Gunseli dashes the whole thing: "Only for fun!" she laughes, grinning.
Posted by Steph at 7:15 AM | Comments (0)
Moonbath: a Lullaby
Tonight the moon is a perfect pearl,
a seed floating in each eye as you gaze
up into earth’s softest sunbath,
photons fresh in from a lunar landing,
but weary of miles, ninety-two million out
to the iron-rich seas and glassy meadows
of a four-billion-year-old crater-pocked rock
and back to earth. Are you sleepy yet?
Tonight the moon is a snowfall,
light as particles drifting over your face,
your eyelids heavy, fine muscles letting go.
Can you feel the motes sifting down
through the stratosphere’s filmy clouds
and landing at last on your inner arms?
Tonight’s moon is a tarnished mirror,
a high whole note the coyotes call to,
their blind instinctual throatache unspooling.
It’s a waterfall tired of its rainbows,
turning everything earthly to smoke
and ashes, the day’s flock of angels
finding your body celestial enough to rest on.
Can you feel them alighting on long hairs
and fine ones like mist on grasses?
Breathe in, and each cell drinks
its drop of moondew, white fire gently
warming and cooling exactly as prayed for.
Tonight the moon is a birch leaf
afloat in the solar wind streaming past us
toward Pluto and thinning to nothing
like the song of joy (remember it?)
welling up in your limbs, as they sail out
into deep space now, buoyant with sleep.

Posted by Steph at 6:53 AM | Comments (0)
West-Eastern Divan Concert Istanbul
The applause after the first number, Leonore Overture, No. 3, Op. 72, was overwhelming. Beethoven is usually rousing, but there was a quality to the upsurge of gratitude and appreciation that seemed to exceed recognition of the quality of the performance. My own guess is that a significant component of the emotion was sheer relief - for now, at least, the Israeli/Hezbollah ceasefire plan in Lebanon appears to be working.
This orchestra is the 1999 brainchild of intellectual and public critic Edward Said (a Palestinian); and conductor and pianist Daniel Barenboim (an Israeli). Its performances raise money to support young people from the Middle East and Israel to play classical music together. The Foundation, now based in Seville, Spain, issued a declaration in 2004, and

An ancient hall of Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Eirene Museum was sold out but we obtained standing room only tickets and wound up sitting (comfortably enough) in the rear stairwell (our view from below, first half; for the second half we made it to the uppermost stairs). Acoustically, I was amazed at the sound. It was stunning. I wondered about performances in this space over the millennia (!) and the constitution of audiences. What kinds of court intrigues and politics occurred during and regarding public performances? How public was “public”, then? (I was unaware at the time of the cancellation and reinstatement of the concert for political purposes.)
I haven’t attended a live orchestra performance for at least 20 years. Various impressions flitted through my mind mixed with vague memories of growing up. Have I heard these pieces before? It was an educated audience, no one applauded falsely between the many movements of Schubert’s Trout Quintet. After the third or forth movement the audience and musicians had cohered. The warmth of the summer evening and lack of ventilation heated up the air to the edge of discomfort: the discipline of sitting still and listening was released in a full group rustle of throat-clearing, rapid brochure-fanning, and general bodily rearrangement. Such was reenacted in each pause thereafter.
What a contrast with Depeche Mode and its audience’s constant, unrestrained movement and attention leapfrogging between the music, mobiles, location, beer…
I also thought about voice and modern-day, mass-mediated politics. I imagined mideast politics as a symphony. There’s the constant thrum of the violins, the basics of everyday life, ebbing and cresting in twitters, chirps, and plucks of melancholy, pleasure, contentment, discord. Occasionally deep swells converge in coordinated harmonies, complimenting or contesting other tides. The deeper strings, brass and woodwinds vacillate among drawing out the dark power of living and accentuating the surface manifestations of conflict and dissension. Percussion marks the points of decision. Commit or retreat but know that whichever is chosen is consequential, even if only circumstantially so.
I know my characterization is crude: I am not a musician. But I felt the music and this is what I thought: a strong voice was needed to pound the drums long and hard enough to force political forces to stop the surface burst of unbelievable human violence. Let’s say the voices of my friends raised in outrage were the cellos and horns, and I came in as a woodwind. Or perhaps I was a lone French Horn against the trumpets. My notes were heard (?) as a threat to the cohesion of the necessary cumulation of voice (sound, power). I would prefer to be positioned as a complementary voice playing an alternative melody, or striking my notes along a different yet compatible scale (but this may be out of my control). What matters to me is the overall “sound” – the co-generated orchestral production. What a good conductor does is balance the volume of each section (sometimes even each individual instrument) so that each thematic strand is auditorily consonant with every other; but the conductor cannot make this happen, the musicians must be responsive, they must trust the conductor’s ear, which hears that which they cannot.
I suppose I came up with this analogy because of a section in Brahms Symphony No. 1 in C Minor, Op. 68. I am not sure which instrument it was, perhaps (?) the contrabassoon. Its sound was almost too deep, too soft to be discerned yet Barenboim coaxed it up, quieting the violins just enough for the lone voice to emerge with the distinctiveness of its own rhythm.
Of course, the difference in social relations and musical collaboration are that there are no conductors (or too many, smile) for social relations. There is also little precedent for such wholistic orchestration in societies or groups where, for instance, we are mostly strangers to each other. Hence, our attunements are more likely random and historical rather than deliberate and visionary.
At the end of the concert I wanted more. So did the vast majority of the audience, and I believe the musicians did too. No go. :-( Maybe Barenboim wasn’t feeling well; maybe he was affected by the absence of the double-bassist who had been called back to Berlin for some reason (leading to an alteration in the program). Who knows. The love was there. :-)
The audience’s appreciation did not dim after that first round of applause, making me wonder if it was “only” the music after all. Or perhaps the even more simple effect of the fundraiser wine we had to gulp before entering? :-) The music was extraordinary, of that there can be no doubt. The setting was magical, the timing historic, the company superb. (Erdem did make sure there was no confusion about our relationship.) ;-)

The title of the orchestra is from Goethe's poem of this name, West-Eastern Divan, "in which he brings the poetic culture culture of the Islamic and Western worlds together" (liner notes). Goethe is noted for beginning to learn Arabic after the age of 60 as well as for truthfully representing "the Eastern spirit of poetry." Imagine! Old dogs can learn new tricks!
Posted by Steph at 4:34 AM | Comments (0)
August 15, 2006
Observations of Turkish culture
I have been on a beach of the Karadeniz (Black Sea) yesterday and today, in the small town of Kabakoz...hope to add more pictures later. Came to Sile for an hour of InternetCafe (and spent another hour or so on a small local beach). This mornıng I was asked to share my thoughts regarding Turkish culture.

Here is a summary, of which my present "family" proclaimed, "What you say matches our experience." (Which I translate as 'not too bad for a foreigner.') We are quite enjoying ourselves. :-)

I imagine it is the climate – the heat – that most conditions Turkish culture. One moves slowly to conserve energy, otherwise it is wasted, sapped by the sun. The relaxed pace could give the impression of inertia, except for the bursts of assertiveness required to compel others to meet one’s needs. There is no widespread ethic of “service” in the institutional economy; it almost seems an imposition on workers to do their jobs. I cite an hour spent in a post office recently, in which three workers took an hour to arrange a small box to be sent to the US. This in stark contrast to street vendors whose constant labor is as palpable and pervasive as the minarets dotting every settled landscape. Turkey is a land of faith, not only in terms of Islam but also in terms of social relations: what must get done, will get done, eventually. Otherwise, it must not need to be done.

Nonetheless, the people contain and channel vast amounts of restless energy. Periodic emotional outbursts are a regular feature of social interaction. These are generally taken as a matter of course, although I observed two near fights – over adjusting an air-conditioning vent (mere fisticuffs), another over a parking space (with one man wielding a knife). Others intervened in both instances to prevent actual violence. Yet relations over all are friendly. More people return smiles than not, including fully-veiled Muslim women, whose eyes tend to crinkle upon contact (thought not always, some remain suspicious but this is in proportion to similar disinterest from others who find my smile inexplicable).
My ignorance of the Turkish language has only rarely been an impediment. The most common reaction when I initiate a request or reply to some overture or inquiry in English is a slight widening of the eyes and an immediate holler to a resident English speaker. Proficiency varies widely, but has always been sufficient. In those instances when there was no one who spoke English, we’ve still managed through gestures, drawing, pictures, and mime. Only once did I have to abandon an attempt to communicate with a cab driver. I was not equipped with the proper visual aid (a ferry schedule) to supplement my inadequate pronounciation of “Bakirkoy otobus” and forgetting of the apparently crucial term, ishkelesi.
A middle-range of service mentality is evident in private shops and restaurants. It comes and goes according to the rhythm and inclination of the owner or employee. Often enough, one has to assert desire in what seems an aggressive manner. Such hardly seems to ruffle feathers though, as many of the initial interactions I would label conflictual from a US point of view turned into amiable and sustained conversations and a significant amount of attention to satisfying needs both expressed and intuited.
I have met many people who could become friends, and some who have: moreso than I could possibly have imagined. Native Turks of religious and secular persuasıon, Turks who have come to Istanbul from other regions or countries, and foreigners like myself. Everyone extols the beauty and promise of the country.
There is more to write another time. Back to the beach!

Posted by Steph at 6:01 AM | Comments (0)
August 14, 2006
Some days are for living
"The Man Who Would Be My Wife" treated me to a day lounging on the Bosphorus, nested into a bay with dozens of other boats with their precious cargoes of families and friends.

The spoils of lunch were followed by a light dinner, delicious dessert,and regional fruit.
The juxtaposition of leisure and pleasure with radical politics (“the extreme side of communication”) has been on my mind. How does an individual justify the personal exercise of privilege while people are being killed? I know I need the space and time to be thoughtful instead of reactionary. The danger, I guess, is in being lulled into aesthetic perception as a permanent desire.
Said and Ali have a brief discussion about “a Chinese wall” between art and politics (69-70). As I understand their use of the metaphor (the reference being new to me), it refers to the institutionalization of a separation between aesthetics and politics, such that art is (supposedly) produced for art’s sake alone, with no political content or possibility (?) of social commentary. Said argues that literature-for-literature’s sake is also false and a recent construction: false because “culture…is hopelessly involved in politics” (103) and a development (in the West, particularly English culture) only of the mid-19th century.
Said declaims to Ali: “I agitate against myself!” (105). Not only against orthodoxies but also against settling into a predictable pattern “governed by things like my own past work” (105). Said’s intellectual restlessness leads him to proclaim the possibility of transgression as a social fact:
“…there’s always an opportunity, no matter how one feels oneself up against the wall with no alternative but to submit – which is usually what it’s all about in the end – there’s always an opportunity to do something else. There’s always an opportunity to formulate an alternative, and not either to remain silent or to capitulate” (108).

Yes, and . . . formulating alternatives requires change, requires the enactment of a difference between who I was yesterday and who I am today. Tendrils of the past cling tightly. Reluctantly, I strive to extract myself from the enticements of their grip.
Posted by Steph at 2:37 AM | Comments (0)
August 13, 2006
Strain
I feel the strain of trying to change discursive tracks. :-/

Tejal and Jed both commented, continuing this conversation.
My words have not been meant as justification for Israeli military actions. I Do Not Support the invasion and destruction of Lebanon. I am also not trying to rationalize the violence, provide excuses, or otherwise contribute – in any way – to US imperialism. I Am Trying to diversify the ways we talk about this appalling and apparently unending conflict. I intend my comments as a small contribution to the establishment of a public space for a polyphony of knowledges about current events and historical trends in this embattled region of the MidEast.
I imagine that creating epistemologies is the task of public intellectuals. I trust that among us are persons with enough brilliance, passion, commitment, and ideological flexibility to co-create an alternative worldview that might provide leverage to those in government and business who also seek peace and shared prosperity. I believe it is the task of intellectuals to discover and implement a new language for political dissemination and media consumption.
The grooves of perspective, opinion, and insight from all angles are as deep and well-worn as the histories that produced them. Repeating the arguments is compelling and even comfortable. Polemics compel by expressing the full range of emotional and psychic agonies induced by the experience of injustice. Everyone feels wronged. The felt experience of oppression demands naming: its sources must be pinpointed and called to account.
Identifying with the claims of pain – whether they are overtly polemical or subtly reasoned – can also bring a form of comfort. One joins with others in a felt community of comradeship, of belonging. The collective “we” is reinforced (along whatever grounds: nationalism, ethnicity, religion, colonizer/oppressed); simultaneously “they” are solidified as enemy. Burke discusses the quality of self/other identification inherent in language use. Applying this lens to public rhetoric (roughly governmental statements and political posturing) and public conversations (including “elite” and alternative journalism, email networks and blogs) one can discern a pattern of canalization: in this regard we are all colonized.
I do not exclude myself. I know that my words will reveal my own complicity with the systems of oppression that have shaped me. I anticipate and depend upon others to teach me about myself. It is in this learning, if we can manage to do it together, that theories of discourse and the social construction of reality can be applied practically in deliberate collaboration.
There are risks. Friendships may be threatened. Alliances may be weakened. This, as I understand it, is the inevitable price of a politics without guarantee (Stuart Hall). I choose to exercise faith that the promises – albeit unknown – of venturing into such co-creation and dialogic relationship must outweigh fear.
Posted by Steph at 2:01 AM | Comments (1)
August 11, 2006
voices and home
“A voice belongs first to a body, then to a language” (52).
Negar told me about an Iranian saying, that learning another language adds a new person to your self. Yes, new capacities, new zones of expression and perception, yet what Berger says is also true, the voice – in its emotion-inducing physicality [my qualification] – remains the same. This use of the word “voice” is different than Blommaert’s conceptualization of “voice” as the operationalization of intersubjective, discursive power. The intersubjective part is the part between real individuals engaged in real time (face-to-face synchronic time or asynchronous technologically-mediated time – as in the turn-taking among myself, Yasser, Jeff, Amanda, and . . . you? wink! Why not?!!)
The discursive part is the larger framework of relationships in which each of us is embedded and all of us partake. Every time we speak (via our physically-embodied voice or through written text), each utterance spins forward along a dialectical trajectory as an outgrowth of previous exposure and knowledge. Simultaneously, each utterance opens onto a potential new vista, an unknown dark zone. “Dark” because not yet lived: unexperienced, and therefore unknown. (Thanks Negar; and original thanks to Chris Baxter, who played with calling me a "dark ally" during the 2005 Supporting Deaf People Online conference.)

I read Berger and translate his words into mine. “It is prudent to believe that the large is more real than the small. Yet it is false” (53). He is discussing the myth of scale, the myth that suggests that the macrosocial is more real (e.g., more powerful) than the microsocial. “If we are trapped, my heart, it is not within reality” (53). He writes to his love as I wish to write to mine. :-) The point, however, has wider application: let me attempt to articulate it precisely.
If we – for instance Muslims, Christians, Palestinians, Israelis – are trapped it is not exclusively because of impersonal institutional forces grinding out grim realities such as the devastation in Lebanon. We are “trapped” also within our own individual, personal and private (dialectical) trajectories. Our “hearts” (our loves, passions, dreams and visions) are constrained by “a vestige of the fear reflex to be found in all animals, in face of another creature larger than themselves” (53).
A major factor that feeds this fear is the loss of home. Berger ties the loss of home explicitly to emigration. More words about emigration are necessary, Berger claims, “to whisper for that which has been lost” (55). Emigration can be understood as the driving feature, the essential characteristic, of global transnationalism. Whether one chooses to move to another country temporarily or permanently, for purposes of education or work, or is forced to move for literal survival (to work or to seek asylum), what is threatened by this move is home. Edward Said discusses this too, in the extraordinary re-ordering of his conception of self that was required when he was sent to boarding school in the US.
“Originally,” Berger explains, “home meant the center of the world – not in a geographical, but in an ontological sense” (55). He continues, “To emigrate is always to dismantle the center of the world, and so to move into a lost, disoriented one of fragments” (57).
When the physical site of home is lost (left, taken away, inaccessible) one resorts to “the habit which protects” (64) and “the psychic level of turning in circles in order to preserve one’s identity” (63).
In the absence/loss of my own home, I turn in circles to preserve my identity as a lesbian (resisting being positioned by others as a heterosexual woman), and for some years now I have tried to tell the story of my life being lived. This is the other side of de-centering fragmentation: “Not out of nostalgia, but because it is on the site of loss that hopes are born” (55). “The very sense of loss keeps alive an expectation” (63). Berger argues romantic love is one of the things that can grow from this soil. Meanwhile, “we live not just our own lives but the longings of our century” (67): “the century of banishment” (67).
I embody these longings, as do many of my friends. It is evident in their/our words. What shall we together make of them? Berger is optimistic:
“Eventually perhaps the promise, of which Marx was the great prophet, will be fulfilled, and then the substitute for the shelter of a home will not just be our personal names, but our collective conscious presence in history, and we will live again at the heart of the real. Despite everything, I can imagine it” (67).
Posted by Steph at 6:37 AM | Comments (0)
August 10, 2006
“But there’s more!”
Özcan challenged me over the phone. “I like what you wrote, it is very good. But the story stopped. Maybe you will write more tomorrow? Keep it up. I like the comments too.”
There is always more! :-)
There was the list of movies I never saw: Hiroshima, Seven Brides for Seven Brothers, more. Eventually you asked if I wasn’t much of a movie person. “I’m not much of a popular culture person,” I replied. “That’s too strong,” you exclaimed, “I give you something and you kill it!” I could only nod in resignation, settling that bit of knowledge (as you illustrated) into its place of permanent recognition in my head.
There was the story of your name, “can” meaning “spirit,” Özcan meaning “the real spirit.” (Which I quite like, grin.) A note about “nonalignment” – hmmm….I don’t remember what that was about? :-/ Something about people’s different subjectivities, I think?
There was a rather serious exchange about me having “closed all the doors and windows” to my own self, because I grew up “living in a lot of noise.” You were distraught that 25 years passed before I even started to find the latches and locks to burrow my way out: “That’s too long!” But it is what it was. :-)
The periodic bursts into song: “One enchanted evening, you may meet a stranger…” (I did make eye contact this afternoon, twice, with a beautiful woman who grinned back at me, both times.) There is that. I have had at least four conversations of “coming out” to date, all of them follow the same pattern. I say “she” in reference to a partner or lover or desired mate and my interlocuter replies “he.” You/they are sure you’ve misheard, or that I’ve confused the pronouns: it just couldn’t possibly be. And yet it is. This is one reason I could not convert to Islam. One, I am too US American with learned cultural and ethical attitudes about equality and integration; two, I am too lesbian.
Meanwhile, they would not let me take pictures at the museum today (inside, I got a few outside).

I got a hot tip that today was free. I made notes about some of the paintings I especially enjoyed. There was also an iron sculpture, abstract, called Composition, by Kuzgan Acar, that resembled (to my imagination) several birds in flight, or an American Indian dancer simulating a bird of prey. The architecture of the building is neat, with plexiglass shattered as if by bullets surrounding one flight of stairs and heavy link chain the next. There is a "False Ceiling" of paperback books, created by Richard Wentworth, of works from the East and West to show connections and distances and convert the physical space of the museum into an area of conceptual and aesthetic debate.
I loved the black and white photos by Francois-Marie Banier, arranged in an exhibit called “true stories.” Famous personages are interspersed with anonymous folks from the street. Some of the images have been embellished by the photographer’s handwriting. There was also a computer graphic of a tree in motion, Eye Catching, including the trunk, undulating in constant sinuous fashion, by Jennifer Steinkamp. I purchased a few mementos with the work of Fahrelnissa Zeid (Mother and Child, 1987, and Struggle Against the Abstract, 1947). She wrote a stunning poem about the art of painting: “I mean you, you…”
Posted by Steph at 1:28 PM | Comments (0)
Lebanon
This conversation and critique has not left my mind the past several days. I posted an initial engagement with Yasser, to which both he and Jeff thoughtfully responded (their full comments follow my original posting).
I am in new territory. I do not consider myself to have ‘the right view’ (whatever that might be); rather, I believe that engaging in such a conversation publicly is a way for me (and hopefully others as well) to learn more, perhaps even to grow and change in our own selves. I go so far, sometimes, as to envision change in the world situation based upon discourses we create and spread.
Perhaps over time, or via specific invitation, it will make sense for me to pull particular quotes from our writings to illustrate (mis)understanding and/or deconstruct meanings, but for now I want to reply more broadly to the tone or quality of both responses. If I over-infer or blatantly misinterpret I hope no one will let it slide. This conversation is much too important to let even the small annoyances go (indeed, perhaps it is in addressing the seemingly small that we can build to the larger and more obviously pressing?)
First, both seemed to feel the need to protect me. I read this as a signal that I am ‘out-of-step’ with this particular intellectual community, or at least at risk of being perceived in this way, of suddenly being counted as among the enemy. I appreciate the engagement and am grateful for – and relieved by – the gestures of inclusion. Thanks. :-)
Second, there is a concern, in both Jeff and Yasser’s responses, that I learn or otherwise come to know certain facts (of history, of media representation, of politics, of language, of precedent…) I agree that this kind of knowledge is important (and I hope various folks will continue to contribute such facts as they seem relevant to the conversation), but I’m not convinced of their utility in generating an actual change in conditions. This is what I mean by pressing against a dialectical framing of the situation: the repetition of the same arguments serves to keep the argument alive. I do not see how this can lead to resolution.
This is slippery, however, because I understand (as Yasser explained) that the framing of this as an argument with sides is a problem, and also that if it is conceived in this way, only one side has been widely ‘heard’ in the West (especially in the US). So there is a place for repetition, but I am raising the question of which place, as well as when. The timing matters as much as the content.
The next level of complication is the sheer urgency of the situation for the people who are in it. It is horrifying to imagine the literal suffering in its physical, emotional, and spiritual dimensions. Such pain inspires polemics. So now – today – I have just read the introduction to a small new book by Tariq Ali, Conversations with Edward Said (2006). I read during lunch at the café of Istanbul Modern art museum, where, as I entered the grounds, my eye was immediately drawn to what I thought were angels. My interpretation didn’t change, even as I got closer, although I started to think they didn’t look very happy. Then I saw the title, “Europeans.”

Here is what I have learned from Ali and Said that seems relevant to this discussion:
Said critiqued the West for orientalism and the Palestinian leadership for lack of strategic vision. Called to politics by the 1967 war, many of Said’s heroes were Zionists in what he describes as a fanatical sense: “Not just pro-Israeli: they said the most awful things about the Arabs, in print” (7). [I note this to mark that I am not alone in recognizing at least two kinds of Zionism.] The combination of admirable and hateful qualities in men (?) Said personally admired was one of the crucial contradictions he critiqued and brought to intellectual/public conscience.
Ali bemoans the fact that Foucault’s notion of discourse “was, alas, an important influence” (8). I am not sure what Ali means, here. Is he saying Foucault was an unfortunate influence upon Said? Or that Foucault himself contributed to orientalist discourse? As a matter for critical discourse analysis, it may be proper that a polemic be brought against the “portray[al of] imperialist suppositions as a universal truth” (8), because a polemic gathers and concentrates a forceful voice in a claim for a discursive space of (self) representation. But to be great, according to Ali, a polemic “eschews balance” (8). Of course there is a point of pride to be held in any offensive which reveals an enemy’s flaws and weakness, but at some point one must recognize and act on the potential to change the discourse if one wants to change the constitutive conditions on the ground. Otherwise a dialectical monologic persists.
That Said apparently took it as necessary to maintain pure hatred (indicated by his refusal to engage a reconciliation with Ernest Gellner) concerns me. Ali states it this way: “hatred must be pure to be effective” (11). I do not know the details of what Ali describes as “a celebrated exchange” between Gellner and Said (10), but the characterization that “Said was unforgiving” makes me wonder about his own sense of comfort (identity?) in the polemic zone (11). Please don’t read me wrong! I am not trying to argue that Said “ought” to have done anything differently. I am trying to argue that just because Said’s polemics were effective and necessary at the time doesn’t automatically prove that such polemics remain the best way.
Oy, I feel myself sinking into a mire! I don’t think Yasser, myself, or Jeff have written in an polemic way, rather, that our perspectives have been shaped, to varying degrees, by our exposure to certain polemics. It is true that I have been more exposed to Jewish accounts of 6000 years of attempted genocide than I am to the ways in which “The Palestinians had become the indirect victims of the European Judeocide of the Second World War” (11). I am not convinced that there is a moral equation of “worse” or “better,” “acceptable” or “unforgivable” when comparing the militaristic actions of the Israeli state with, for instance, Said’s characterization of Hamas: “I see them as creatures of the moment, for whom Islam is an opportunity to protest against the current stalemate, the mediocrity and bankruptcy of the ruling [Palestinian] party” (14, all quotes are from interviews in June, 1994).
Learning the details of a particular set of injustices does not negate the details of any other set of injustices. Hierarchies of the oppressed only serve to protect the genuine elites – of which there are Arabs as well as Jews, along with Christians (keeping a restricted focus on the West and Near East). I do wonder what happened to Moustapha Barghuti? Said had high hopes of him as the leader of the National Political Initiative.
My hope in Said is restored (after the disappointment of his embrace of hatred), or perhaps I should say balanced, by the critiques he leveled at certain post-modern critics “for their stress on identity on hostility to narrative” (9). If we agree (Said and me, grin) that narrative matters more than identity, then how far a leap is it from narrative (the telling of a story – a dialectic?) to dialogical discourse: the talking of a story into being?
[FYI - in seeking links I came across a blog entry which links to an audiorecording of an interview with Said in April, 2000.]
Posted by Steph at 12:53 PM | Comments (2)
August 9, 2006
Air like velvet
A voice addressed me in Turkish. “Sorry?” I looked up from the August edition of Time Out Istanbul. An older (than me, grin) man addressed me again, “May I share this table?” he asked, explaining, “It’s hard to find a place for one person.” “Certainly,” I replied, not wanting to hog the 4-person table I occupied. “I arrived early.” I’d already devoured half a pizza (pear, walnuts, cheese) and a great glass of fresh-brewed ice tea. I wasn’t ready to abandon the table; I hadn’t decided how to spend the rest of the evening. I had been weary all day – a reaction to the volume and intensity of recent days’ stimulation.
While he settled in I wondered about etiquette. I recalled my first trip to Germany, some 20 years ago, where people often shared tables and rarely spoke. Should I continue reading? We made eye contact. “Where are you from?” he asked. Twenty hours later (!) I returned to my room at the World House Café and Hostel.
Özcan is gregarious, curious, and happy to be alive. He writes. His first book is on Kazi Nazrul Islam, the national/rebel poet of Bangladesh.
Özcan loves his hometown, and had just completed a meeting with his publisher and several reviewers in which they approved the publication of his next book about its history. Bostanci has grown from a village of 1000 when Özcan was growing up, to a densely populated suburb of Istanbul. Eventually we ended up there, but not until after a second pizza (spinach, cheese), fresh walnuts (they taste different and have a softer texture than the dried variety we get in the States), a bottle of wine, music, flowers (we had to talk, wink), and some sightseeing.
First, the Rumi Mehmet Pasa Camii.

I can't recall if the famous architect Sinan (who built the Suleymaniye Mosque) built this one as well as the next mescit (small mosque) that we saw, nestled right on the shore of the Bosphorus.
This one has the most decorated public water fountain I've seen, and a sweet small library. There were still worshipers in the mosque at 11 pm.
Did I mention that last night there was a full moon?

We took our last cay of the evening at Özcan 's sport club, where he exercises and takes sauna. (He's a champion ping-pong player; I entertained the far-fetched fantasy of him coming to Amherst to take on George.) In the morning, I was treated to a delicious full spread mediterranean breakfast.
From passing the time alone with such activities as admiring an anonymous electrician's work-a-day frog at The House Cafe to a companionable tour of two mosques and beautiful views of Istanbul from the Asian side, Özcan lived up to promise implied in his self-tease: "It's not every night you meet an ambassador on the street!"
Tell me about it! :-)
Posted by Steph at 10:37 AM | Comments (1)
oops!
I posted a few days ago about a new trove of data for internet researchers, with accompanying debates regarding the ethics of using it.
It seems AOL released the data in error.
Meanwhile, it is suggested that the release violates the Electronic Communications Privacy Act. (A law everyone affecting everyone who uses email.)
Posted by Wojciech to the air-l listserv, air-l Digest, Vol 25, Issue 8, August 8, 2006.
Posted by Steph at 10:21 AM | Comments (0)
am I missing
the best parties in Amherst?
It would seem so: Mr. Motown fronts Anuj serving bira.
I recognize my own singing peers in the background: flat tenors. I would have fit right in!
I'm not really jealous. Istanbul is pretty cool. :-)
Posted by Steph at 10:01 AM | Comments (0)
August 8, 2006
Sema
It is impossible to convey the sounds and images of Sufi ritual through words. The most I can attempt is to describe my experience. I am a sucker for mysticism. :-) [Sucker: (2b) "One that is indiscriminately attracted to something specified."]

[Painting by Ayten Mungen Polat.]
The visit to Mevlevihanesi began with a gift. (Later, as I checked into my hotel for the evening, I received a compliment: “That is a beautiful scarf. Very Turkish.”) Beautiful tiling and religious inscription adorn the entry, a long hallway with four windows opening onto several richly-embellished coffins: the lineage of teachers at this particular temple (architecturally it is not a mosque). Adherents pause at each window to offer greetings and respect.
The hall opens onto a small courtyard with trees and the obligatory public water spigots. Among the various decorative tiling is a symbol I have not seen before.
![]()
We remove our shoes and pass through two rooms before entering the place of worship. The singers have already begun. I am gestured to sit with a few women at the far end of the space. I settle down and observe the surroundings. The walls are dense with script.
Immediately in front of where I sit is a large open space. The man who welcomed me with his eyes, indicating where I should sit, is spreading small fuzzy carpets around the edges of the wooden floor. The singers are clustered at the other end, squeezed into another room separated from the dance space by pillars and a low wall. They face the same direction as I do, so their backs are toward the dance space. They sing in unison, striking the same notes but at various pitches: a melodic blend of tenor, bass, and baritone.
The sound is low and quiet yet it fills the space. It is pleasing, rhythmic, soothing. I continue to look around and realize there are onlookers in the balcony, women and children. They have the best seats in the house. :-)
More people enter. I am distracted by two women who sit in front of me (their male companion sits with them at first, then is directed to the men’s section). They talk. Is it instructional? Perhaps, but it interferes with the singing. The woman doing most of the talking checks her cell phone. I am annoyed by the disrespect to the service and the auditory interference. But people move continually in to and out of the worship space. Late arrivals filter in throughout the service: some join the singers, others the audience. Some people depart at irregular intervals. The annoyance is only mine. I let it go.
Suddenly the dancers enter. After the first three I am surprised when the fourth steps into the room, then realize I’ve seen many depictions of five…yet they keep coming. I count nine. The dance space seems small to me now: how will they manage? They line up in front of the audience space; I can’t see much. The singers are in their third or fourth song now. A very few times a single voice has deviated from the chorus, usually in a sharp or punctuated manner: obviously deliberate. Upon occasion a soloist would sing a prayer. These seem to have been short and subtle because I had not noticed when they began: my consciousness would gradually register their presence as “having been there for awhile.” I was oddly alert while simultaneously being lulled.
The dancers, individually, bow. There is no rhyme to it, no pattern. If there is a cue as to who should bow when, I cannot discern it. Are they being visually directed? My view is obscured. Some time passes. When will they begin? How will they start? The singing provides me no clue: the chants seem to vary yet the overall sound remains more or less the same. A dancer moves into view to my right. Ah, there has been a leader, someone whom (I assume) the dancers have been facing.
Now the line of dancers bow in unison and remove their black robes. Except the first one in line does not remove his. I count again, ten plus the leader, eleven in all. Two in black, nine in white. They kneel, prostrating themselves in the typical Muslim prayer position. Suddenly they strike the floor forcefully with their hands, startling a young woman near me. The volume of the singing also rises simultaneously, an accentuated coordination of the singers and dancers.
The friend who brought me had encouraged me to take pictures but I was uneasy about it. This was real worship, not a show. Still, I took some surreptitiously. Then, the first man in line - who had not removed his black robe - greeted the leader and moved to a more central place some two-three meters away from the leader, yet facing him (and me). I took a picture of them but our eye contact dissuaded me from taking many more.
The white-skirted and jacketed dancers now proceed in a line to greet the leader and begin. The gesture of greeting involves a bow, a nod and kiss to the chest of the leader (his heart?) who responds by a nod/kiss to each dancer's head, another bow, and then a slow step away into the first twirls. Each dancer follows in turn and they unravel their straight line into a graceful constellation across the floor.
The singing continues. I am surprised that the singers do not turn to watch the dancing. The coordination is managed on some other plane of sensation. The second leader walks the dance floor, presumably checking on each dancer. Satisfied, he stops near the leader and they watch. The dancers twirl for a long time. There is still only slight variation from the singers. Perhaps the content of the chant has changed, but the effect of the sound, its quality, remains steady, constant.
After what seems like both a long and a short time, a loud beat occurs and all singers and dancers stop. They are all prepared for it: there is no perceptible delay. Time has ceased to matter much, except I am hoping there will be more. :-)
Two more songs/dances ensue. For the second round there is a change of two dancers but the movement of the dance varies little. I notice more details: the slow raising of the arms with hands brushing one's own face before extension into uplifted, open arches. There is a rotation...I think it increases from dance to dance. One can't really see it happen, at least not from my angle. One just realizes the faces are different, in different positions than they were originally. The singing is more robust; the singers have begun to sway. Volume increases; the soloist is more marked. When it's over I am let down, but it is gentle. I have been privy to something quite special.

I linger, but am gestured to leave. They are preparing for the next service! I want to stay, but am told there is someone who speaks English who can explain and respond to questions. In a small room with half-a-dozen other English speakers, I realize I'm in a devotional group. I remember the feel of this - bible study! - from my Nazarene days. :-) They really are trying to convert me! (More on this later, smile.)
I meet Edip, Alistair and Cyndee, Nureddin, Gulliame (sp?), and others. We are quite a collection of nationalities and language competencies! We introduce ourselves casually, only in response to questions about background and/or what has brought us to Istanbul. The air is strong with comraderie (and cigarette smoke!); I am comfortable. Relaxed. A question: "How does one find god if one does not believe in god?" I want to say, "Look elsewhere! 'god' is not to be found as 'god.' 'god' is in whatever moves you, feeds your passion, nurtures your desires. Pay attention to what turns you on! Therein you will find 'god'." But I hold my tongue, wondering at myself. :-) Edip answers. There is some back-and-forth. I'm unsure of the sequence of conversaton now, at some point Alistair provides a beautifully-gestured description of how he and Edip had met earlier that day and Alistair realized, "Here is a man I can talk to."
At some point I say, "It is a matter of belief. You're here because of a random set of events. You can consider them simply random. If you weren't here, you'd be somewhere else, but that would also be because of how you interacted with those random events."
Edip, turning to me, gestures to a stained print on the wall, "What does it say?" he asks me. I read it out loud. "There is your random. That is your field."
Cyndee, Alistair and I maintain a conversation that ambles around, sometimes merging with others in the group, sometimes diverging to a pair or engaging us as a trio. What brought you here, she asks. "An academic conference," I respond, "A good opportunity to share my interest in language and the European Union. The conference is over now and I'm still here." It is an answer open to many possible hearings, as I discover when she responds with a comment about me becoming Sufi. I let that go, but there is another implication that I've decided to stay long-term in Istanbul. Have I? ;-) Or has it decided me? (I ponder.)
Posted by Steph at 6:25 AM | Comments (0)
Turkish-English translation
It hasn't been so easy finding good software for my Mac OS X (version 10.3.9).
Some online resources:
Seslisozluk, which also has a discussion forum.
Someone's list of word-phrase translations.
Hmm...this could be useful, an explanation of adding Turkish fonts to a Mac.
Some widgits for my dashboard:
Elmasuyunet [which does not seem to be available for download? :-( wah!] and Ligpuan, which shows the current weekly standings from the Turkish Premier Soccer League. (I'm interested, but it's not much help with the language!)
I can track the Turkish financial market but I can't translate to and from English! (Should I be frustrated?)
((nah. just keep looking.))
(((I found some Korean sites that look fun, but I may not be able to read them!)))
((((Too bad I can't read French!))))
Harumph! I'll look again later. :-/
Posted by Steph at 5:30 AM | Comments (0)
Your private search history on the web?
Yesterday's air-l Digest, Vol 25, Issue 7, includes discussion of private information made publicly available by AOL for a short window of time. A summary is here. The discussion has begun with questions of ethical use. I also wonder about the squeeze of surveillance technologies on the academy: certainly industry and government will feel no such compunction against mining this data for their own purposes.
Posted by Steph at 5:16 AM | Comments (0)
August 7, 2006
more from the Pera
In addition to the special exhibit, El/le, there were a couple of other exhibits on display.
An exhibit of "Portraits from the Empire" includes this classic, which is seen all over Istanbul:

And many others; I posted an excerpt of five hands from one already, and took this one of a pal.
There's an even older series of paintings, called "Mehmed The Hunter's Imperial Procession."
I bought some replicas of the Kütahya ceramics. These come from a particular province that became famous during the Ottoman period for ceramics, tiles, and faience.

One of my favorite parts relates to the Anatolian weights and measures. I just think this stuff is cool. :-) Many of the same tools are still in daily use.

Finally, there's a fancy little cafe inside the museum, which seems to double as a performance space. It contains the actual piano which inspired the movie, The Piano.
Posted by Steph at 7:30 AM | Comments (0)
Crossroads (Day 4)
I really enjoyed Sudeep Dasgupta’s talk on “Space, Time and the Political: The EU Constitution and the Partition of History.” This was part of the panel (4.19) on “Time, Space and the Unfolding of Culture.” The hinge of his argument, as I understood it, is that Jacques Rancière provides a conception of the democratic that presupposes an equality that the law has already institutionalized. This is a radically different premise than arguments based on alterity, which have to rely on appeals to ethics regarding one’s relations with the Other. Rancière simply declines to engage at that level, as if “Others” are outside the law, trying to get in and be covered it. He argues that the law already has established principles of equality. Period. From this basis one can proceed in quite practical terms to reframe debates about justice – “the coordinates around which democracy is organized” – instead of about difference (which necessarily invokes non-knowledge, invisibility, and a kind of absolute alterity).
Dasgupta contrasts Rancière with Derrida, who he finds “useless in real life,” while still relying on some of Derrida’s conceptual notions, such as “the ‘secret’ history of Europe (Derrida 1994, 1995) and the temporalization of the spatial. The context is the recent (2005) rejection of the EU Constitution by the Dutch and the French. Anti-Turkey and anti-Islamic themes in public discourses were used to localize Europe: as it seeks to extend its space through enlargement it also heightens its borders (Fortress Europe).
Photo: Poster of a sextant from the Rahmi M. Koc Museum.

What is exciting about Rancière is that his notion of the spatialization of the political actually describes how space is created for the presence or position of difference. Sudeep said (possibly quoting Rancière), “politics is that disruption effected by those who do not count as having a legitimate place in the partition of the sensible.” It is this “space of the non-part [the part held by those who do not count] which actualizes dissent … [putting] into action the premise of equality.” Note that equality is taken as given, as a premise, but its condition of possibility is difference. It is this premise, the premise of equality, which “sets up an excess inherent to democracy as dissensus.”
Sudeep (or Rancière, or both, smile) labels the assignment of place (a position in space) “spatial policing.” This reminds me of Bülent Somay's talk, which I reacted to, twice (!), but only partially summarized. His point is that position has replaced identity in the emerging social infrastructure (I hesitate to label it either global or postmodern – both are accurate and neither is enough). In this regard, Condoleeza Rice can fill the position of a white man, and this position has more salience than any other “identities" she may hold. “Meaning is the outcome of positions,” Somay states, referring to mathemathics’ dependence on positionality (first, second, etc). Identity, in contrast, is the outcome of desire. (At some point these must blur….if what I desire is position, then that becomes the reference point for my identity.)
Bülent’s local example generated a peal of laughter: “Any Kurd can be a Turk. In Turkey, a Kurd can be anything: a prime minister, general secretary…..In Turkey a Kurd can be anything except a Kurd.” This is a position, apparently, that cannot be filled by the local spatial policing. Now, here I get confused. Bülent talked of “a gap” that is created when someone of the proletariat passes into a bourgouise position; Sudeep spoke of “an excess.” Sudeep’s excess comes from “the premise of equality which is inherent in democracy as dissensus;” Bülent says the gap can only be filled by another subaltern, but one who is “a speaking subject.” As an example, Bülent recalled a campaign by the German Green Party in which one of their slogans was, “I am a foreigner.” Their non-part-ness is clearly political and emphasized by their identification (!) with the position of non-citizens, but what gap do they fill? It seems to me that they move into a political space of excess by claiming difference.
Yes, the Greens are clearly speaking subjects… and foreigners may or may not have access to the positions that give them legal leverage from which to claim the premise of equality. It seems to me a privileged move, into a space already occupied, rather than a move into a space that has been vacated.
I must be missing something. (Wouldn’t be the first time!) ;-)
Posted by Steph at 5:51 AM | Comments (0)
Diving in headfirst
I wrote the two friends who responded to my plunge into Mideast politics and rhetoric, explaining:
"I have always considered myself as a foil for teaching. In other words, by being willing to display my own errors and ignorance, and do this learning in public, I think others who think like me - or who might be persuaded to think like me - can more readily grow into better, deeper, richer understandings."
Foil, in the sense of "One that by contrast underscores or enhances the distinctive characteristics of another: “I am resolved my husband shall not be a rival, but a foil to me” (Charlotte Brontë)."
The responses are both critiques. I am waiting for permission to post them (either with credit or anonymously). In the meantime, this photo was sent to drive home the point that not all Jewish people believe in Zionism.

The term, Zionism, presents its own problems. By Jews it originally meant the desire to found their own nation, a homeland. By non-Jews, the term has been conflated with deliberate, systematic, and racist oppression. It would behoove us, I think, not to assume there is only one possible meaning for this term. It would be even better if we could use language more precisely - perhaps even avoiding this loaded term - to distinguish between Israeli and Palestinian ambitions. We might even be able to talk commonalities into being.
An aside: A man to watch: Sheik Nasrallah.
Posted by Steph at 5:30 AM | Comments (1)
Vowel harmony
This concept scared me right away. Is the Turkish language like Mandarin (Chinese), which depends on tones? I am so bad with matching pitch. :-(
But no, it seems to do with pronunciation, with phonetics, but not tone. Whew/ (and if I’m wrong oy oy trouble on the way!) Turkish uses suffixes extensively, and has a flexible syntax, words are used in different positions resulting only in differences of style, not meaning. I’ll have to learn the difference between types of clauses better than I know them now. :-(
The author, Hikmet Sebüktekin, of the text I bought describes the content of words and utterances this way: “Turkish is tradition-bound. The mere mention of a single word referring to a cliché, a proverb, or an anecdote, of which there are thousands, often suffices to activate complex meanings stored in the mind of every Turkish speaker” (v).
This is one of the things Marie Gillespie discussed in her presentation at Crossroads 2006 on politics and translation, translating politics, although (I think) her examples were Arabic. It also reminds me very much of Lila Abu-Lughod's anthropological study of the Awlad ‘Ali, a Bedouin culture. Particularly the way women used language. She says the men do this as well but she had more access to the women and their ways of speaking.
Turkish is regular, its “forms are put together with almost mathematical precision and utmost economy” (v). Thank you Atatürk! At least, I’m guessing there is a relationship between the development of the orthographic system and the present-day phonetics – but perhaps I am mistaken. It could be that the language was already auditorily rhythmic and the writing developed (with nearly perfect correspondence, each sound having one specific letter) to match. I’ll require a native informant to straighten me out on this, ácaba?
Turkic languages have a wide distribution and minimal linguistic differences among dialects: 90 million speakers in the Balkans, Cyprus, Syria, Lebanon, Iraq…Azerbaijan, Kazakstan, Kirghizstan, Tadzhikstan, Turmenistan, Uzbekistan…Afghanistan, China, Iran, and Russia. This on top of the 60 million native Turks.

Posted by Steph at 4:59 AM | Comments (1)
Muhammed and the Qur'an
My education progresses.
I have been thinking about Allah’s commandment to read, and the particular power of the words in the Qur'an. I have also been thinking about the life of Muhammed. My substantive introduction to his life is through the eyes of Geraldine Brooks. The overall impression that remains with me is the sense of Muhammed using daily events as the template for Allah’s pronouncements. Imagine what it would be like to be a person who is aware that your words will carry forward?!? There is care in many of the commandments, while some seem uttered in haste. Muhammed is (was) after all, just a man, like the rest of us – subject to human desires and temptations. I imagine that questioning this (the basic fact of Muhammed’s humanness is as controversial for Muslims as arguing for Jesus’ humanity is for Christians (someday I should watch - or read! - The Last Temptation of Christ).
My second look at Muhammed’s life is through Anthony Quinn (playing Hamza) in The Message, a Hollywood movie released in 1976 and approved by three levels of Islamic scholars.
The first command Muhammed receives is: “Read.” Kindof a challenge for an illiterate, eh? It isn’t clear if Muhammed does learn to read himself, but what is clear is that he understands the power of the written word. This is also the advice I am consistently given when I ask questions about Islam. “Read!” I have read some excerpts of the Qur'an in English; those that I have read are similar to parts of the Old Testament (including some parts taken from the Jewish holy book, the Torah) and the New Testament (added by Christians), especially Revelation (about the end times). One confusion: is there a contest between judgment by Allah and judgment by men? "Only Allah can know your heart," says my friend. Yet the Qur'an is full of admonitions to punish and discipline “unbelievers.” How can it be both ways? It is so competitive.
It was competitive at the time Islam came to be. Muhammed was not well-received and his followers were severely persecuted. The idea of one god instead of many gods was threatening to the entire social and political order. “The real god is unseen, not made of clay.” Some of the beliefs stated in this movie (and thereby approved by high Islamic religious sources) are:
“Girls should not be forced into marriage but should be able to choose;” and “God made women to be the companion to man. She is equal.”
“Stop the burial of newborn girls.”
“All men are equal” referring to slaves and free.
“Jews have equal rights as Muslims.”
At one early stage, when the persecution is severe, Muhammed advises some of his followers to go to Abyssinia, where “there is a Christian king, no one is harmed in his country.” The followers who seek sanctuary there have to argue to gain the King’s protection. They convince him by such statements as, “You believe in one god like we do;” “God has said it all before, to Noah, Moses, Jesus, now he says it again, to Muhammed;” and, “At one time all religions were rebellions.” The Qur'an cites the story of Mary, telling it in essentially the same way as the Christian bible does.
The main group stays in Mecca with Muhammed, but eventually they are also forced to flee. I like the story of Muhammed being protected by a spider’s web and a bird’s nest. :-) Spiders are very important in many American Indian religions (scroll down at the link), and birds in some of them.
The “tala el bedru” is the happy call of the women when someone special arrives. I guess it is not only for Muhammed, but also when travelers from the village return home safely? A camel decides the location of Muhammed’s house, a choice that “can offend no one.” Hz. Bilal, a former slave, is the first to sing the call to prayer – the use of a human voice used to distinguish Islam from Christianity (which uses a bell) and against the militarism of a drum: Hamza, one of Muhammed’s uncles, is an important and powerful early convert. He says, “there is too much blood in a drum.” Would that such anti-violent sentiments had carried forth with more force!
I am with the story up until this point. I haven’t been offended, or disagreed with anything. Then Muhammed decides (is told by Allah) to go to war against Mecca. :-(
I have not yet seen the rest of the movie. In the interim, I have been reading John Berger and considering his discussion of time. My speculation is that Muhammed experienced life deeply, in such a way that he accumulated presence. He reinforced his own energy through his perception and insight of relatively mundane daily events. The words he then uttered were received powerfully because listeners felt their “truth” – they realized – and could not deny – the applicability of what was said to their own lives. They could not avoid the logic.
The force of this accumulation, its concentration, penetrates across/through time. It is re-concentrated by believers, who add to the accumulation, preventing dissolution, therefore keeping the power of the words recorded in the Quran alive. Herein lies a specific problem. The words uttered by Muhammed referred to his time, his era, his locality, his place. It is the same challenge Christians face with translating the bible into contemporary times. Literality is dead, it is frozen in time-space, a perennial monologue, an example (?) of the poetry Bakhtin critiques: Poetry "acknowledges only itself, its object (what it represents), and its own unitary and singular language (p. 670a); the word in poetry encounters only the problem of its relation to an object, not its relation to another's word. In other words, words used poetically refer to language itself, to idea of centralized/unitary poetic language, and perhaps to an object represented--but not to non-poetic language, to other languages in the culture."

The problem of literality, then, must be engaged constructively. How does one shift from a monologue to a dialogue? How does one nurture the recognition of two (or more!) logics and participate in a synthesis that leads to something new?
Posted by Steph at 3:36 AM | Comments (0)
August 6, 2006
multilingual publication
Hafez ıs the famous Persian poet from Shiraz, the town I had hoped to visit in Iran.

Contributions are sought from scholars working in Persian studies for a book on "Love and Civility in Hafez" (Mehr va Modara) to be published by Hafez Studies www.hafezstudies.ir and ISESCO http://www.isesco.org.ma/. The papers may be written in Persian, Arabic, English or French.
Length should be in the region of 5000-8000 words,including endnotes.
Inquiries are most welcome, and should be addressed by email to Farideh Pourgiv fpourgiv@rose.shirazu.ac.ir
Deadline has been extended to 25th of September 2006. ISESCO is going to pay US $ 200 to each article accepted for the collection.
Posted by Steph at 6:56 AM | Comments (0)
Berger on philosophy
Berger argues “there has rarely been a more optimistic philosopher” than Hegel because Hegel believed in history as a positive force (38). [I might need to read him!]
Then he goes on to describe Marx’s genius, which was “to prove that this force – the force of history – was subject to man’s actions and choices” (38). [Finally – a concise, pinpoint definition of Marx’s main point!] “The always present drama in Marx’s thinking, the original opposition of his dialectics, stems from the fact that he both accepted the modern transformation of time into the supreme force, and wished to return this supremacy into the hands of man” (38).
[I read this with a flutter of panic. Have I misunderstood, still, and will this destroy the argument I began to make in my comps answer for Briankle? But I think not, because Marx in use, the discourses I’ve heard of Marx, the times and moments when the term “dialectics” or “dialectical” is used, consistently refer only to the former part of his equation. If there is an implication of “returning supremacy” to persons it is buried. And buried so deeply that no one, until Berger, of all the people I’ve had this argument with, has been able to articulate the latter empowering part of the equation. If it is so seminal, why is it not easier to say? Why are there so few examples? Which is why I argue that Bakhtin’s conception of dialogics serves better – it is premised on the future, on possibility. Dialogics acknowledges the past but does not confine itself to it. I would argue, that when Marxist dialectics is invoked as the explanation for some human success over institutionalized systems, it is coopting the more precise and more accurate conceptualization of dialogics, it is trying to colonize it and claim credit for something it has not adequately articulated. In Bakhtin's terms, dialectics ıs monologic. sigh. Do you think I will be ready for my defense?]
Berger continues: Marx’s “thought was – in all senses of the word – gigantic. The size of man – his potential, his coming power – would, Marx believed, replace the timeless” (38). [No wonder he was and is so compelling. But this message is not evident to an outsider, it has been coded within a discourse that takes it for granted. Not only coded, but I would say obscured by the very term, dialectics, clearly coming from dialect, which is a variation of a particular language, a derivative, another version of the same thing (with unique, local modifications).]

The wikipedia definition (linked above) defines dialectics as "an exchange of proposition (theses) and counter-propositions (antitheses) resulting in a synthesis of the opposing assertions, or at least a qualitative transformation in the direction of the dialogue" (emphasis added).
:-) Only a step in the direction of dialogics - which puts logics into a process of exchange, not just ideas.
Posted by Steph at 6:02 AM | Comments (0)
“brief as photos”
John Berger on time, imagination, and love.
“The modern transformation of time from a condition into a force began with Hegel” (38).
Summary: Berger argues there is a phenomenological problem with conceiving of time as a unilinear and uniform flow; this is an unchallenged residue of the 19th century. It is a phenomenological problem because only human consciousness can conceive of time in this way. Such “remorseless time” causes the past to be lost, to fall into nothingness (37). “It follows that one no longer counts what one has, but what one has not. Everything becomes loss” (38).
“That life may be seen as a Fall is intrinsic to the human faculty of imagination. To imagine is to conceive of that height from which the Fall becomes possible” (emphasis added, 39).
It was imagination that enabled the invention of linear time, and imagination that can reclaim a dimension of time that remains intractable to it. Berger explains:
“…hidden within the conceptual system that allows man to measure and conceive of such boundlessness [i.e., the distance which light will travel in one year] is the cyclic and local unit of the year, a unit which can be recognized because of its permanency, its repetition, and its local consistency. The calculation returns from the astronomic to the local, like a prodigal son” (37).
At the local level – of you and me experiencing the passing of time – are “two dynamic processes which are opposed to each other…The deeper the experience of a moment, the greater the accumulation of experience. This is why the moment is lived as longer. The dissipation of the time flow is checked. The lived durée is not a question of length but of depth or density” (all emphases added, 35).
As a natural example (countering artificial limits of “culture” or “subjectivity”), Berger describes the accelerated growth of plants in spring and early summer: “These hours of spectacular growth and accumulation are incommensurate with the winter hours when the seed lies inert in the earth” (emphasis in original, 35).
“If there is a plurality of times, or if time is cyclic, then prophecy and destiny can coexist with a freedom of choice” (34). Berger ties the exercise of choice to language:
John Berger
(emphasis added)
Time is linked with death, because if time is a cycle it must move in one direction against a force moving in the other direction. “The body ages. The body is preparing to die. No theory of time offers a reprieve here. Death and time were always in alliance. Time took away more or less slowly: death more or less suddenly” (36).
Against death, with time, is the sexual urge: “The impersonal force of sexuality opposes the impersonal passing of time and is antithetical to it” (41). We are all biological. :-)
“Differently, the ideal of love is to contain all. ‘Here I understand,’ wrote Camus, ‘what they call glory: the right to love without limits.’ This limitlessness is not passive, for the totality which love continually reclaims is precisely the totality which time appears to fragment and hide. Love is a reconstitution in the heart of that holding which is Being” (emphasis added, 41).
“History…has changed its role. Once it was the guardian of the past: now it has become the midwife of the future…thus people live a new temporal dimension. Social live which once offered an example of relative permanence is now the guarantor of impermanence. Given the actual condition of the world, this offers a promise. But equally, it means that people find themselves more alone than they used to be, before the enigma of the two times of their lives [the time of the body and the time of consciousness]. No social value any longer underwrites the time of consciousness. Or, to be more exact, no accepted social value can do so. In certain circumstances – I think of Che Guevara – revolutionary consciousness performs this role in a new way” (12).
Posted by Steph at 5:36 AM | Comments (0)
the Pera Museum
This was during my first serious tourist day here in Istanbul, and it has been my favorite exhibit to date. I already posted some of the work that dealt directly with the deaf and also interpretation (of the main exhibit's title, El/le). Of all the exhibits, this one, by Nebahat Cagil, is my favorite:

the idea of the exhibit overall was to investigate the "relationship between the hand and the object" (exhibit brochure). For some of the exhibits I can make certain leaps of abstraction and imagine the hand at work, such as in the " onclick="window.open('http://www.reflexivity.us/blog/archives/wo-man.html','popup','width=482,height=499,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false">genderbending of Fethiye Gun, or this part of a larger installation by Hera Buyuktasciyan:

Others seem more about the eye, than the hand? Such as this photograph of two boats, one trailing the other in fog, by Hakan Temusin, or this man with his rosary, full of emotion, by Cuneyt Celik.
Thinking about the hand, and the hand's relationship to one's body, one's work, and therefore the world, invokes all the senses, including the absence of sight, and missing fingers (a coffee cup set by Murat Celik).
I don't know if you can catch the detail in this "classic" graphical advertisement for Taksim, by Elif Simsek, and this "groovy" one, by Umit Yanilmas.
I loved both of the futuristic images by Nevruz Ebru Aksu, and was tickled when I saw how I was reflected in this one.
:-)

Posted by Steph at 3:51 AM | Comments (0)
August 5, 2006
douglas coupland
I bought a book of his the other day, haven't got to it yet: All Families are Psychotic. It might be more uplifting than John Berger (last/next post).
and here's this link to his film notes on the upcoming, Everything Gone Green.
He was also profiled for "JPod" in the Time Out magazine I picked up for July's events in Istanbul. Pretty good media saturation, eh? :-)
Posted by Steph at 7:14 AM | Comments (0)
the force of what lives us
When I open my wallet
to show my papers
pay money
or check the time of a train
I look at your face.
The flower’s pollen
is older than the mountains
Aravis is young
as mountains go.
The flower’s ovules
will be seeding still
When Aravis then aged
is no more than a hill.
The flower in the heart’s
wallet, the force
of what lives us
outliving the mountain.
And our faces, my heart, brief as photos.
Posted by Steph at 6:50 AM | Comments (0)
a day of tombs
I was not where I’d planned to be yesterday. Instead of having coffee with a language and interpreting professor I trekked all over Istanbul visiting the tombs of Islamic teachers. At one point I was pinned between two men arguing their different interpretations of … Islam? Politics? It’s hard to say, except that the air thickened and thinned with waves of tension. I took many pictures… and tried to follow the lessons. I was distracted, somewhat, by observing all the people going about their daily lives (hyper-aware of my days being so out-of-the-ordinary), and wondering why I’m here, what will come of it, where will it take me?
The weight of lonliness grows. It is heightened, I think, by the certitude of faith as I hear the muzzein and watch people pray. I entered one mosque and two shrines today. Stupidly, I forgot my own scarf, even though I did remember to wear my one pair of long linen slacks. Luckily the shrines had spares handy, although the mosque did not and I did not think of it until we had already exited. We entered Üsküdar Valide-I Cedid Camii to see the evidence of a stolen mural. There was a huge plywood gash in the wall one faces when praying in the direction of Mecca. What effect does it have, I wonder, on those who pray under it regularly? I was entranced by the clocks marking the muzzein’s call schedule. Six in coordination, including one to wake up and then five to pray.

At the first shrine, to Aziz Mahmud Hüdayi (1541-1628), I declined to enter but a man saw me and offered me a scarf. So I put it on and stepped in. The room was full of women and men pleading for Aziz Mahmud to support their prayers and give them strength. Many of them held one or both hands cupped right up against their own torso as they murmured supplications. During his lifetime, Aziz Mahmud expressed the desire for his tomb to be a place where people could gather a sense of strength and security. As we were leaving, I was introduced to Ayse, who is here from California with members of her family. They were all aglow :-) with spiritual uplift.
We checked out another shrine, briefly, where I admired the grillwork and got quite close to a minaret. Cool. Then we went for one of the really big guys: Fatih Sultan Mehmed. He’s the one who finally defeated the Byzantines on behalf of the Ottomans. (He overran a lot of other places too, including Romania, 1462 when Columbus sailed the ocean blue.) His entryway was splendid, and the ceiling quite dramatic.

None of this prepared me for Eyup, though. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it inside; they closed up while we wandered in the courtyard. I was stunned as we entered by the size of this tree, the beautiful tiling, and the crowd. It was a live place, not a tribute to the dead (as the others were, or at least, how they felt to me).
The day ended with the moon out my window.
Posted by Steph at 5:59 AM | Comments (2)
August 4, 2006
of dreams and power
“Life is full of the unexpected” (Orphan of the Sun, p. 146).
Meryt-Re is a dreamer. “It is a gift,” explains the rekhat, the village wise woman, the Knowing One. “You must learn how to harness it, and use it for good” (148). Two tasks, first the harnessing, second the use. Meryt-Re learns how to do both in the span of this book, set in the village of Set Maat (whose ruins are at Deir el Medina) in approximately 1170 BCE.
As Meryt-Re struggles to decide what to do based on a combination of hard facts (that only she knows) and insightful dreams (which only she seems to have), the rekhat advises her to keep busy: “Solutions present themselves in their own way and you cannot always force them” (228). The dreams are a particular challenge. “In time, you will know which way a dream is leading. You must let your mind go. It will lead you to the truth if you allow it to” (200).
Of course it helps if your heart is “big enough to find forgiveness” (227), you persist even when it seems that there is no path ahead, and you act on your decisions when it is time. Meryt-Re spends much of her emotional energy questioning what she thinks she knows, and doubting whether she actually knows anything. And then there are the dreams, which seem scary. It takes a while for Meryt-Re to trust the rekhat’s teaching: “Seeing something does not mean that you caused it. These are two different things. The dream may be yours, but the magic [that you see] has nothing to do with you” (167).
It is a heavy load for a 13 year old girl who is being raised by her aunt and uncle since both her parents have died. It would be a heavy load even for someone from a totally happy and healthy family! “You cannot run away from this, Meryt,” says the rekhat, “It is part of you. Everything will be fine as long as you learn to understand it” (150).
Meryt chooses not to hide. She faces some huge decisions with implications for her entire town and all of the people she loves. I would certainly wish to have her for one of my friends. :-)
Posted by Steph at 5:31 AM | Comments (0)
August 3, 2006
EL/LE
The title of the exhibition, "El/le", has many layers of meaning in Turkish, and it is for this reason that we have preferred to retain this title without translating it into another language. The word "el" refers to both "hand" and "stranger", but the phrase "el/le", its mirror image, can be interpreted as "by hand", "to touch" or "with a stranger"
(Quoted from the Exhibition Brochure.)

There were so many beautiful things in this exhibit, which is by the 2006 graduating class of Marmara University. I began my collection of hand images here (I had begun, already, but now I am in earnest). Most of the hands will find places in entries to come. :-) (Two have been posted previously; details ought to appear if you hold the cursor over the image and wait.)
Some of the artists used deaf themes.

This work is called "Silence," by Selen Sarikaya. It includes drawings of several letters in Turkish Sign Language (which uses the British Sign Language alphabet) and the sign for WORK.
It is beautiful but curious. Sign language is "loud" visually, and clear vision is crucial. The artist has covered each of the images with a scrim that blurs sight. Deaf people are also not all that quiet. :-)
The next exhibit is a bit creepy from a distance: "What is lack of communication"? asks Volkcan Dogan, whose hands suspended in mid-air barely touch at the fingertips.

Posted by Steph at 9:52 AM | Comments (2)
Deaf Turks
Check out the hands gesturing in this Deaf Dergisi (magazine). :-)
It is British Sign Language that influences Turkish Sign Language. I've almost learned the alphabet; it requires "seeing" the letters in a different way, but once you see them they do make sense. I've learned a few signs as well. Many are similar but some are quite different. Again, I think I could learn the logic if I was immersed for awhile.
There are some terrific homemade films of Deaf Turks telling stories, some crazy photos, and all kinds of info about community events.
There is even a feature film, Kiskanc Asik ("Jealous Love"), starring Deaf Turks and TSL.

Posted by Steph at 9:22 AM | Comments (0)
Lost in Istanbul
"These things happen for a reason," said the rekhat to Meryt-Re (126).
My host said much the same, when I finally contacted him three hours late: "It is fate."

Many hands - most of them Muslim - took care of me along the way, continuing a trend that had already filled my day.
It was a full day; left the house early, hung out in a restaurant under the Ataturk bridge, sipping cappucino until museums opened. Who knew it would end with two dramatic events?
Spent a couple of hours at the Rahmi M. Koc Museum (pictures to follow) then headed to Istiklal. While I was in the Musesi, the batteries in my camera died. Two different folk directed me to the neighborhood shop, and this was my first significant social encounter of the day.
I bought two batteries (they whacked the four-pack in half, cool). As I was walking away I tried the camera and - nothing. :-( They saw me fiddling with it...next thing you know the shopkeeper has sent his son (?) off on his bike to the market for replacements. I settled down on the curb to wait. Some ten minutes later I was back in business, mulling the notion of customer service. :-)
I had to take a cab from the Musesi to Taksim; the driver knew little English but wanted to chat. Always people want to know where I'm from, most pause when they realize I'm American and I've used a thumbs down gesture to signal ambivalence. This cabbie was quick to say, "Ben, sen," pointing back-and-forth between himself and me, "Me and you, no problem! Bush problem." This sums up the attitude of everyone with whom I've had this conversation. Others ask, "Socialist?" Yes, I think we should share more, be more fair. This cabbie was Kurdish, likes it here. I wished I could have asked him about "the Kurdish problem" as the news media paints it, but he seemed quite happy here. He also identified himself as Muslim, as have other cab drivers who engaged me in conversation, as well as women I've met in cafes.
Yasemin works at Is-tav-rit, where I found free wireless and great food, with a view overlooking Istiklal. Her family moved here from Germany, where "there were many problems. Here, no problems." She explained that she doesn't veil, and her mother does. "No problem." This seems common, women skipping generations, everyone easy about it. They care more about the beliefs, the attitudes, not about what one wears. "Everyone live together, everyone the same," said another cabbie. The people want peace. :-) And they all want me to know that they're Muslim, and not like "the terrorists," who make them pretty angry. :-/
After I completed my afternoon blogging and emailing, I headed to the Bosphorus to ferry to my host's home. (Well, first I tried to find the dolmush - a form of van transport that collects folks going to roughly the same area, charging way less than a taxi but still offering door-to-door service. I was disoriented where to look, so returned to Plan A, two ferries and a taxi
Really, everything was going just fine. I was a little late, but not too bad, less than one hour. When I got off the ferry, one of the sweetest things in the world happened. I trudged along with the crowd, watching my feet, avoiding hazards of construction and various kinds of goop, when a small girl in front of me turned around meeting my eyes and giving me absolutely the biggest grin in the world. :-) Then, she took my hand. I could hardly believe it. "How can I be so lucky?!!" I said out loud. She just walked along, one hand clinging to her mom, and the other grasping two of my fingers. Some ten seconds later she was distracted and let go, but within a minute had repeated the look and grin and taken my hand again. I kept talking out loud, saying I felt very special and lucky. Her mom asked her, surprising me with perfect English, "Should we take her home?" The little girl, very close to three years old, didn't respond. I said to her mom that the girl is wonderful, so happy. Her mom said she's always like this. I turned toward the taxi stand and they went their own way, waving bye.
Feeling that little bitty hand gripping my fingers filled my heart to the brim! I reached into my pocket to pull out the map and address for my host's home . . . gone. Uh oh. I searched my other pockets. Nope. Backpack? Nothing. uhhhhhhhh....gulp
I had carefully sketched the intersection that morning, noting down the street names so there would be no confusion with the taxi driver. I resketched it but couldn't remember the street names to save my life. What was I going to do? I approached the taxi stand, asking the drivers if anyone had a map. Maybe I would recognize the street names if i saw them, or the configuration of the intersection (which wasn't standard). No map.
This wasn't looking good. Couldn't call - hadn't gotten the phone fixed yet and didn't have their phone number anyway. We'd been doing email and talking in person. I had their address; we all thought that would be enough.
What to do? I was tired. Think! I actually stayed relaxed, calm. I worried that my friends would worry but I couldn't do anything about that until I found internet somewhere. Finally, a brainstorm - the hotel where I'd stayed one night with Catherine and the Dragon couldn't be far away. What was it called? Yusupasef? When I'd gone there the first time the cabbie had said, "Very nice hotel." He seemed familiar with it so I assumed all cabbies would be. I asked the guy who had been trying to help me the most; I wrote it down and he gestured to the hill right across from us. Ah, I thought, it's close!
I walked over the bridge and approached a couple of local guys. They didn't speak any English and didn't recognize the name, they gestured to a waiter in the restaurant we were standing near. He also wasn't sure, and called someone else. Soon, there were five guys huddled around me, trying to figure out my problem. One of them spoke English.
"No," I explained, "that map is to my friend's house but I can't remember the street names. It has nothing to do with the Yusupasef. The cabbie said I could walk to it, it's right up the hill, I just want to know which street to go up."
"No, I don't have their phone number or address. I stayed there one night last week."
"I can't call my friends. They're deaf." (I didn't have their number to text them; and my phone wasn't working anyway.)
"No, I don't have their address. I lost the map to go there."
He explained to me, patiently, that yusufpasa is a general term, not just the proper name of a specific hotel. Oh. "You have a difficult problem," he said. Tell me about it!
The other guys kept interjecting and Orhan would translate: "Do you have the hotel's business card?" "No, it's with my belongings at my friend's house." They escorted me into the restaurant to sit down (I guess I was looking a bit ragged). Offered me cay. Consulting among themselves some more, drawing in more of the restaurant crowd, eliciting more (of the same) questions and my (unchanged) answers. Now I was trying to figure out how to escape! Not that I had much of a plan . . .
Orhan took control. Back to the taxis. He explained, as we walked back in the direction from which I'd come, that he'd worked for ten years in the medical field in the US, introduced me to his colleague who accompanied us, told me about his US manager, John someone. We approached a cab and the two of them engaged in some complicated negotiation. After a few minutes, off we went. Where? Good question! Finally my brain kicked in, the hotel I was trying to find is near Sultanahment. "Ah, the driver confirmed, Sultanahmet? Yes. From there I walked, with only a few wrong turns and deadends. Thank heaven, the Yusufpasa Konagi had a room available; they were even willing to repeat the discount they had given me last week because I was under the protection of the Dragon.
What a fiasco!
This morning, I dealt with the phone. Isik explained that my phone hadn't been registered properly with the government when I arrived, so they had turned it off. I had to buy a new phone. I couldn't believe he was serious. But... there it was. More business, Turkish style. I buy the phone but we have to go to his "other shop" to activate it. Then, it turns out it is not the phone, it's the simcard. Back to my own phone, but with a new number. As I wait, I'm served cookies (!) and cay. My haircut is admired and I'm asked to give opinions on the four worker's haircuts. Isik had already assessed that I am here alone. When he asked if I was married I said yes. Easiest way to discourage these guys. :-) They still gave me great service and I eventually left with a functional phone but it's a good thing I wasn't in a hurry!
Posted by Steph at 7:30 AM | Comments (2)
August 2, 2006
"Heaven on Earth"
I was thinking this morning about reincarnation (whether or not, under what conditions I choose to believe in it or not), so it's odd (in an oddly-reassuring kind of way) to peruse the art and sentiments of Maira Kalman linked from today's New York Times headlines.
Some of it verges on the too touchy-feely but then hey, it is about emotion: death, love, hate, living.
Posted by Steph at 9:29 AM | Comments (0)
Day 21 (Israel vs Hezbollah)

My friend Yasser has just sent his self-described "fourth apocalyptic email in three weeks."
I blogged earlier, including some of the resources he sent, and a few days later I wrote more on my personal view.
My concern with Yasser's framing is its one-sidedness. I AGREE, emphatically, that the violence needs to end, but arguing that only one side needs to cease actually adds fuel to the fire. Hezbollah's tactics also need to come under scrutiny.
With Yasser, and Naomi Klein (see her letter), I urge anyone who can to support the efforts of the Saniyeh Relief Center in Beirut. But - as we publicly engage the horrors of this war - those of us who fashion ourselves intellectuals concerned with social justice cannot afford the luxury of an "obvious" villain or victim.
How do we break out of the dialectic? If we can't find a way, who will?
Yasser included an article, A World in Love with Death by Eduardo Galleano (who I think is great). Unfortunately, in the linked article above his claims and associations go too far: the UN is not the US even though the US plays with it like a toy), civilian death in wartime is a fact of every war not just Israel's vs Hezbullah. This is kind of rhetoric is simply sloppy. Galeano is right that the Europeans cast their own problem (their own internalized anti-semitism) out of western Europe and into the Middle East but the Arab nations need to stop using this as an excuse to position Palestianians at the constant brink of rage of devastation. The Jewish people are from there just as much as any Arab or Persian ethnic group.
[The Lebanon Forces link above is from planetary movement, which also included a link to irrepressable.info from Amnesty International (go there, sign the pledge before a key international meeting this upcoming November: "I believe the Internet should be a force for political freedom, not repression").]
This opinion piece from the NYTimes, Lebanon’s Force for Good recalls a previous diplomatic effort that worked.
Posted by Steph at 7:28 AM | Comments (2)
only be open
Not only one sign! MANY! In Turkish sign language! Recep works for Information Technology at Sabanci University. He works with a team on the web design of about 50 webpages for the university. We had breakfast together, then he took me to his office to show me pictures on top of pictures, plus weblinks to information about Turkey in general and the Deaf Turkish community in particular. :-) I need many more pictures in my blog. Wow. I was not able to show him very much, and (thinking with Deaf eyes) I realized how text-heavy my site is. :-(

As usual, he (the deaf person) made all the accommodations for me, the less-flexible non-deaf person. Recep (the letter "c" is supposed to have the mark at the bottom that indicates the "ch" sound) knows some American Sign Language. I am thinking Turkish Sign Language is a relative of British Sign Language (which has no relation at all to ASL) and also some English. We began with gestures, then combined gesturing with writing, and at his computer had the most fluid conversation combining photos, websites, gestures, some written notes, and his Moonstar Turkish-English dictionary. Unfortunately, Moonstar only runs on PCs, not on Apples. :-( Although there is a website I can access for English-Turkish at www.sozluk.web.tr translation; I don’t know if it is as sophisticated as Moonstar – I was impressed with it. Working a phrase at a time we could communicate very well, supplemented with facial expression, gestures, and some signs.
I was teasing myself yesterday when I posted about “a sign” – thinking I had already been given one: time to move on! Gizem had pointed Recep out to me but I hadn’t been able to catch him that first time; I knew this might be my only chance to connect with the Deaf community here. Who knew he would turn out to be so generous and friendly?! I guess perhaps I am as much a "novelty" to him as he is is to me. :-) We certainly share a love for teasing (!) and much curiousity about how other people experience the world.
As has been happening for some time now, I feel myself blessed.
Posted by Steph at 5:29 AM | Comments (0)
August 1, 2006
Lord Gimme a Sign!
Two of three visits to the gym I heard this song by DMX. Last night, as I walked over, I heard the muzzein calling the faithful to prayer. It was comforting. (I hope it is not considered blasphemous for an unbeliever to feel so.) I had completed reading Brooks' sympathetic treatment of Islam just a few hours earlier; some of its sentiments were still on my mind.
“I have learned to live by the rhythm of other people’s prayers,” she writes (225). Among other things, she has provided me with the clearest definition of democracy I’ve yet come across: a system that tolerates competing ideologies (190). Tracing the growing strength of fundamentalist Islamic movements through the 1980s and early 1990s, she charts the narrowing of acceptable public behavior – particularly for women, but also media in general. Brooks recounts the jailing of a newspaper editor “because his English-language newspaper runs a cartoon strip, ‘BC’, that the Saudi government deems heretical. The offending cartoon was a two-frame piece in which a Stone Age man stands on a hill and asks, ‘God, if you’re up there, give me a sign.’ In the second frame, the man is deluged with a sudden rain shower. ‘Well,’ he says, ‘ we know two things: He’s up there, and He’s got a sense of humor’” (227).
I’d say! No sooner have I gotten rested than its time to hit the road again. :-)
“’Behold the turtle,’ [says] a caption under a whimsical drawing of the creature [on a bulletin board at a newspaper in Jeddah]. ‘He makes progress only when he sticks his neck out’” (167).
Posted by Steph at 2:08 AM | Comments (0)
Nine Parts of Desire
“Like most Westerners, I always imagined the future as an inevitably brighter place, where a kind of moral geology will have eroded the cruel edges of past and present wrongs. But in Gaza and Saudi Arabia, what I saw gave me a different view” (166).
Geraldine Brooks’ survey of Islamic women’s lives in a range of countries, including Turkey and Sudan, Palestine, Egypt, Eritrea, United Arab Emirates, Jordan and Iran, with references to India and the diaspora in England, was published in 1995. Reading it now, a decade later, brings much light to subjects about which I’ve known very little. Her writing is seamless, integrating personal anecdote with historical fact and religious analysis. She concludes hopefully, an achievement in and of itself after all she’s witnessed and explains. I was disappointed that the critique I found from a Muslim point-of-view only found faults, I can imagine that as a defensive reading. No doubt there are things in this text that demand redress, but what Brooks pushes against most forcefully is the fundamentalist refusal to permit doubt (289). The experiences, laws, and tendencies she documents must raise the specter of doubt for any rational being – which is not a necessary indictment of faith. Faith can only exist in the presence of doubt; otherwise it is not faith.
There is a mainstream and even an arguably “feminists” scholarship and tradition within Islam. I’m interested to know more about Fatima Mernissi, a Koranic scholar from Morocco who “has made a formidable case for Islam as a religion of equality and human dignity” (282).
It’s fascinating, in light of current international politics, that Brooks describes a very progressive tradition among Palestinian women (while mourning its suppression) and predicts Iran as providing the best conditions for progress for Islamic women. (AGH! I want To Go!) Her reading of Jordan’s King Hussein is probably the most favorable overall in terms of a model of governance: “The fundamentalists were still there, but so were the feminists. No group’s rights had been trampled for the sake of another’s. The struggle went on, but it went on in the open. And the weapons were words, not bombs or gunshots or mass arrests” (141). I wonder if it is still so?
Brooks recounts watching King Hussein laughing out loud at Ross Perot on Larry King, when Perot challenged Bush Sr’s foreign policy. Perot gives an “account of the mysterious workings of Arab diplomacy…that the Arabs, left alone, would go inside some tent, rearrange the sand and come out with some deal Americans would never understand” (137). This could be dissected from several angles, no doubt, but I appreciate its simple acknowledgement of serious cultural difference, as well as feeling the desire for the Arab world to do just that - rearrange the sand. It’s ok if I don’t understand it, as long as it leads to a world where talk instead of violence is the preferred mode of negotiation.
Although I can’t ignore the “sad half smile” Brooks conveys from a young Eritrean woman fighter, Chuchu Tesfamariam. “’Not everything that comes from war is bad,’ she whisper[s, after explaining], ‘It’s possible that these people [getting married to each other] come from parents who were taught that you starve before you share food from the plate of someone of a different faith.’” After serving together in battle, watching women perform as well as and even outperform men, “Muslims and Christians were marrying each other by the dozen” (116).
About a third of the way through the book, Brooks comes out as a converted Jew: “For me, being Jewish had remained an abstraction: something that had defined the kind of wedding I’d had, and afterward meant a once-a-year family feast at Passover, a fast at Yom Kippur, a certain awkwardness at Christmastime and a label, often an inconvenient one, that I had to write on visa forms when I visited Middle Eastern countries.” She contrasts this with women whose conversions “shaped every day’s routine” (97). This passage struck me for a few different reasons. The Christianity of my parents while my brother and I were growing up was even less marked than these few annual celebrations – we were completely secularized. In fact, being religious in any way was actively discouraged – an abstraction once removed. The other element, though, is the structure provided by routine. As I encounter a timespan of increasingly reduced structure, I become more aware of its appeal as well as my dependence on the tiny bits of it that remain.
Brooks is also occasionally funny, a welcome relief from the difficult information she imparts. I wondered (at first) how her friend and colleague Sahar felt about being described as wearing “makeup…so thick it would have required an archeological excavation to determine what she really looked like. Her hairdos needed scaffolding” (6). I also wonder how Brooks would characterize the Iraq war, after “visiting Iraq in what turned out to be the brief interregnum between Gulf War I (the foreign, subtitled version between Iraq and Iran) and Gulf War II (the American-made international blockbuster)” (55).
In addition to all this, I was immediately intrigued by the opening quotation by the founder of the Shiite sect of Islam, Ali ibn Abu Taleb (also the husband of Mohammed’s daughter, Fatima):
then he gave nine parts to women and one to men.”
Posted by Steph at 2:07 AM | Comments (0)
Islamic Vocabulary
This is hardly comprehensive, but I learned some distinctions that matter. If I misrepresent them I hope (as always) that someone will correct me.
The Koran is the text of the literal sayings of Muhammed and are “the direct instruction of God” (37, Nine Parts of Desire, Geraldine Brooks).
Hadith are “anecdotal traditions about the prophet’s life and sayings.” These are “Islam’s second source of religious instruction” and are debated (whereas the Koran is not debatable). The hadith were collected “by the early Muslims in a formidable research effort in the two centuries following Muhammed’s death” (37), and include all sorts of “apparently trivial” (to non-Muslims only?) accounts including “a genealogy that documents the source of the story and exactly how and through whom it was passed on” (38). It turns out that many of the hadith are accounts from Muhammed’s wives.
Haram means forbidden.
Wajib means obligatory.
Makruh are “in-between” haram and wajib, they are “discouraged and unbecoming.”
Sunnat are also in-between haram and wajib, they “are desirable but not obligatory” (38).
The benchmark for these things is the Koran and Muhammed’s personal behavior. It is sunnat to follow as closely as possible (could one say mimic?) Mohammed’s own choices and makruh to do that which Muhammed chose not to do.
Jihad is “holy struggle to spread the faith and defend the Muslim community. Jihad is obligatory on all Muslims but can take many forms…[such as] teaching the faith, or spreading the word through an exemplary life” (emphasis added, 109).
Fatwa is a religious ruling by “a high ranking clerical thinker” (25). It seems this applies only to the Shiite division, not the Sunnis. “While Sunni Muslims assume a direct relationship between believers and God, Shiites believe in the mediation of a highly trained clergy” (25).
Hijab “literally means ‘curtain,’ and it is used in the Koran as an instruction to believers of Muhammed’s day on how they should deal with the prophet’s wives” (20). Quite a novelty for me was to learn that the Ayatollah Khomeini (the one we Americans learned was So Awful when he overthrew the Shah) interpreted this statement literally, as applying only to “the prophet’s wives,” not to all women.” Another absolutely relevant point is that this instruction given by Muhammed was after he was extremely frustrated with visitors who refused to leave so he could “bed” a new wife. Indeed, there are hadith that recount how Muhammed’s wives (among others at the time) noticed a strange peculiarity regarding some of Muhammed’s pronouncements: they often seemed to relate directly to particular conflicts in his own household. I am torn with appreciation (respect) and empathy tinged with frustration. It occurs to me that Muhammed was aware how his words would be taken, and therefore deliberate in what he uttered. In many regards he was clearly ahead of his time (despite fundamentalist “evidence” to the contrary), but in other regards . . . one has to wish he had been able to transcend self-interest just a wee bit more.
Then, there is sigheh or muta, which I’d never heard of before, which is a temporary marriage “agreed between a man and a woman and sanctioned by a cleric, [which] can last as little as a few minutes or as long as ninety-nine years” (43).
Also talaq, in which a man can pronounce – with no grounds – three times, “I divorce you,” and be divorced (60), a procedure Brooks argues “only the most convoluted and misogynistic reading of the Koran can support” (60).
Aqd is the marriage contract signed by groom and the bride’s father. It is legal when signed, and typically “document[s] how much the groom pays the bride on marriage, and how much more he will have to pay her if he later decides on a divorce…a well-written aqd can counter some of the inequalities … [including] “the esma, giving her the right to a divorce if she asks for one” (56). I wonder to what extent this continues – has the practice increased or decreased over the past decade, and what additional items are included (beyond rights to work and further education) or if these gains have been eroded.
Islam - the Submission (75).
Posted by Steph at 2:02 AM | Comments (0)
The Islamic Paradox
Why hijab? Is it simply its visibility that makes it such a target for critique or are people drawn to this debate because of what it symbolizes? Someone told me soon after I arrived how the clothing (here, in Turkey) served as a barrier between non-Muslim and Muslim women, making nonengagement the only option and leading to a kind of invisibility in which veiled women ceased to be seen by other women.
Brooks brings several views to bear on hijab, representing various strains of hadith, tradition, and scholarly thought. Ultimately, she argues that “the paradox between sexual license and repression” (42) is played out here:
“In Muslim societies men’s bodies just weren’t seen as posing the same kind of threat to social stability as women’s. Getting to the truth of hijab was a bit like wearing it: a matter of layers to be stripped away, a piece at a time. In the end, under all the concealing devices – the chador, jalabiya or abaya, the magneh, roosarie or shayla – was the body. And under all the talk about hijab freeing women from commercial or sexual exploitation, all the discussion of hijab’s potency as a political and revolutionary symbol of selfhood, was the body: the dangerous female body that somehow, in Muslim society, had been made to carry the heavy burden of male honor” (32).
Posted by Steph at 2:00 AM | Comments (0)
Geraldine Brooks on interpretation
As I tend to do, I noted all of the references to interpreting in Nine Parts of Desire.
“I wanted to ask her if she blamed the Iranian government for not showing her son some mercy, but Janet, who was translating, s hook her head slightly and didn’t put the question. Instead, I asked gently if she felt that all her sacrifices had been worth it” (100).
“Even Hamzah [King Hussein’s young son] wasn’t excluded. Although the boy’s command of English was perfect, he preferred to speak Arabic, and would force his father to act as translater” (136).
“One British doctor, on an eighteen-month posting to a Jeddah hospital, thought his interpreter had failed him during an ante-natal checkup on a twenty-eight year old Bedouin. ‘I asked her when she’d had her last period, and she said, “What’s a period?” It turned out she’d never had one. She’d been married at twelve, before her menarche, and had been pregnant or lactating ever since” (172).
“Official translators milled among the athletes, facilitating conversations. Each of them wore the usual Iranian attire – black hood and long tunic – but with a vivid, color-coded athletes’ warmup jacket pulled incongruously on top. Indigo and acid green meant the translator spoke English; pink and chrome yellow, Russian; lime and sky blue, Arabic. As conversations bounced from Farsi to Urdu to English, the hotel lobby filled with a pleasant, feminine buzz…But in one corner a group of men sat self-consciously, murmuring together in Russian, without the aid of the young women translators…” (208).
“When I decided to write a story about the controversy, Sahar looked at the floor and said nothing. ‘Do you want me to find someone else to translate?’ I asked. She nodded. She didn’t want to visit Cairo nightclubs or talk to dancers” (217).
I could add commentary to each of the preceding quotes, but today I will refrain. :-) Each reflects certain decisions that interpreters must make, constantly, during each and every interaction. These are all reminiscent of the examples Marie Gillespie shared in her talk on the politics of translation. Brooks characterizes
“the Arabic language [as being] as tribal as the desert culture which created it. Each word trails a host of relatives with the same three-letter cluster of consonants as its root. Use almost any word in Arabic, and a host of uninvited meanings barge into the conversation. I learned that one of the words for woman, hormah, comes from the same root as the words for both ‘holy, sacrosanct,’ and ‘sinful, forbidden.’ The word for mother, umm, is the root of the words for ‘source, nation, mercy, first principle, rich harvest; stupid, illiterate, parasite, weak of character, without opinion.’ In the beginning was the word, and the word, in Arabic, was magnificently ambiguous” (10-11).
Posted by Steph at 1:59 AM | Comments (0)
Odds and ends
“What Berkeley was to the antiwar movement of the sixties, the Islamic University of Gaza is to the holy-war crowd of the nineties” (153).
“She was watching a small tortoise make its uncertain way through the furrows of plowed earth” (163).
“The king’s deftness lay in containing fundamentalist influence without excluding it from the political process and driving it underground, as had happened in Algeria” (195).
“An Iranian-born friend who lives in London, a gentle, middle-aged woman who practices family medicine, says the only war she would willingly fight would be one to stop Islamic fundamentalism telling her how to live her life. She is a Zoroastrian, a member of the ancient Persian faith in which dark and light, good and evil are forever locked in a struggle for supremacy” (286).
Geraldine Brooks, Nine Parts of Desire: The Hidden World of Islamic Women, 1995.
Posted by Steph at 1:58 AM | Comments (0)